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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Haisley and Scott Baxter, circa 1984
Page Views: 5,911
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Sep 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Leading Kingsnake at Winslow Wall. This route see...


This is a long pitch with lots of hands, the pro is varied since the crack constricts often. The rock quality is good as Red Rocks, nearing Wingate. I think the belayer should be at the highest ledge to reduce rope drag but with runners and a runout, could be belayed from the ground.


As you rap into WW, this is the long corner just upstream on the west wall.


nuts, small to large cams

Photos of Kingsnake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: You will need a 70m to get from the anchor on top ...
BETA PHOTO: You will need a 70m to get from the anchor on top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Hanging Judge but this is a good shot ...
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Hanging Judge but this is a good shot ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve finishing and cleaning up
Steve finishing and cleaning up
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve and Greg starting route
Steve and Greg starting route
Rock Climbing Photo: Melinda follows this long pitch, mostly hands with...
Melinda follows this long pitch, mostly hands with...

Comments on Kingsnake Add Comment
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By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 8, 2009

Nice route, long & fun. We broke it up into 2 pitches and it worked well.
By tcskis
Oct 29, 2009

1st Ascent- Jim Haisley and Scott Baxter, 1984-ish. This and the Hanging Judge were the first 2 routes climbed at the Winslow Wall and they were put up simultaneously.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Sep 8, 2011

We got to the chains at the base of Kingsnake and Hanging Judge by going up the far right corner, then traversing back left. From those chains it took a full 70m rope to do the route and lower back down. I had 3 sets of camalots from .5 to 3 and still ran out of gear. We first attempted in the evening, and I ended up lowering down from about 2/3's of the way up when I heard what sounded like many bats from inside the crack. I came back the next morning and was barely able to hear their squeaks, so I wasn't too scared to shove my hands in the crack.
By Sun2Stone Meyer
From: Phoenix,AZ
Sep 20, 2011

Lead first to 80' . Anchor with large cams 4s .
Nestor finished. terrific sandstone but moves felt like Bonnies Roof in Gunks. CM
By Tradiban
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Sucks up a ton of gear but doubles to C4 #3 will do fine. I would give it four stars but rock quality deteriorates towards the top.
By John Rivers
From: Flagstaff
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route can be done with a 60m. The ends of the rope are 4 feet above the chains but with a little rope stretch will get you right to them. Also doubles .5-3 is just the right amount of gear, as long as you don't place it all down low, save some big pieces for the top. On top of that there is a bat cave inside of Hanging Judge, we literally watched 1000's of bats pour out of that tiny crack as we were hiking out.
By Joshua Munoz
May 21, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Are the correct chains high and to the left? If they are the correct ones make sure and bring some long runners for the rope drag. If not you're gonna have to traverse back and remove any pieces placed high.
By Alex "Tojo" Kray
From: Chandler, AZ
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Starting from the bottom (below the ledge with the chains(the most horrible gear-camo job ive ever seen!)) to the chains at the top, my 80m was almost exactly at the middle mark! AWESOME tall pitch!

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