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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ketron, Melkonian 2002
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The sort of obscure yet high quality pitch that makes the Gorge so worthwhile.

Starts with an easy, runout slab which takes you to a ledge at the base of a headwall. Clipping the first bolt on the headwall can be a production if you don't have a long reach. Once that bolt is clipped, launch into the headwall where you will find sustained, intricate climbing all the way to the anchors.

This route was unpublished until the 10th edition so as of this writing, still needs a little buffing.


On the right side of Gotham City, two climbs to the right of the obvious chalk highway of Flex Your Head.


9 bolts. People shorter than 5'8" may want a supplemental piece to protect clipping the first bolt, though I don't know what that piece would be. Something in the 1" range.

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By Neil Kauffman
Apr 23, 2015

Tried this route the other day and was sadly disappointed. I'm 5'10 and I still couldn't reach the mentioned bolt, very exposed and too reachy for me! My thought is, add another bolt on the slab below, because you are looking at going huge (decking?) if you blow the ultra reach clip. Supplemental gear would work, but it's more of a "who the F bolted this route?" Too bad, looks like a good climb.

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