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Kings of Rat 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Huth. Bolted by Phillip H.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 861
Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on May 5, 2013

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Description 

KoR heads up the steep face between Shitfire and Maverick.

Climb Enchilada to the chains, but don't clip 'em! Instead, reach right and clip a bolt at head height. Take advantage of the good rest and get ready to giddyup! Reach right and climb through a series of underclings, making a clip in the process. Get set up on a slick left hand undercling and right hand pistol grip and throw a dyanamic, crowd pleasing, "drive-by". Match, make eye contact with the 'draw at face level, and don't even think about clipping it - it's only for grabbing when 'dogging through the moves. Continue climbing through the exciting, but safe runout and clip the next bolt with the rope looping away below your feet. Keep it together as you execute the brilliant closing sequence to a sharp clipping jug at the anchors. Uniquely dynamic movement for the cave!

Thanks for scoping and bolting the line Phillip H!

Protection 

Soon to be outfitted with a set of shiny new perma-draws.


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By Matt Sedor
From: portland, or
Aug 24, 2013

Classic Schnepel-beta! Almost, aaallllllmost, makes me wanna go up there. Nice job Philip, Eric and the rest of the 'cave crew.
By Mark Huth
From: Portland, OR
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Best new addition of 2013. Nice work Phillip

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