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King's Hand
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Easy Ramp T 
King's Hand Left T 
King's Hand Right T 
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King's Hand Right 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Valdes, Paul Frank, Bob Milton, 1987
Season: Spring and Fall, Winter possible
Page Views: 1,203
Submitted By: Greg D on Mar 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Paul V enjoying the second pitch. The cars visibl...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

King's Hand Right is the same as the King's Hand Left except for the second and third pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.8). Climb straight up the middle of the formation for 150 feet. There is a pin about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There are some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout.

Pitch 2 (5.10a) Climb up and right past a good pin. There is a bomber nut just above it. Move into the left of the two dihedrals and onto the anchors. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wall Street now.

Pitch 3. Head out left past a few pins and behind the formation.

Pitch 4. Climb chimney and cracks behind the formation until behind the fingers.

Rappel in two double rope rappells with 60m ropes.

Runout (8), sanding and heady. The most adventure you'll have on Wall Street.

Location 

The King's Hand is directly above the Jaycee Campground on Potash Road approximately 3.9 miles south of Hwy 191. Park at the campground and walk south through the camp sites and find the easiest way onto the bench above the campground, then north to the base of the formation which looks more like a foot with a large middle toe (or middle penis).

Protection 

standard desert rack


Photos of King's Hand Right Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul V rapping off the top.  2 double rope rappels...
Paul V rapping off the top. 2 double rope rappels...
Rock Climbing Photo: The King's Hand from the approach
The King's Hand from the approach

Comments on King's Hand Right Add Comment
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By Idaho Ian
From: Pocatello, ID
May 13, 2016

Awesome looking climb, but had to bail on pitch 2. The 5.10 side of the second pitch ends with a burly, 30 ft runout up a blank slab section. Bring cojones for pro, as the single nut placement above 2 old pitons didn't do much for me.

Several small holds fell off the second pitch, likely down in the campground now if you want to replace them.
By TonyV
From: Cool, CA
Sep 11, 2016

Ian glad to see you tried the route. Putting that route up so many years ago and still climbing..I'm headed back to Moab daughter Becca to climb it together. I do recall how gripped I was on that run out section with a few baby angles on my rack. I wish you the best with your future climbs. This climb was my last first ascent having moved to the Pacific Northwest for other adventures:)
By Idaho Ian
From: Pocatello, ID
Apr 23, 2017

Best of luck! Some rp's or offsets would have been nice for that slab. It was definately a head game! I wish I had more time to work it out, but we also had constraints with the light fading. Will be back to try it again sometime.

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