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Kings and Desperate Men 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Rosecrans & Erin Rosecrans Nov 2007
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Kings and Desperate Men in Red

Description 

We only did the first two pitches, but they were "gem".

Start - The book ("Adirondack Rock") starts the climb at the lowest point of the tree ledge, about 35 ft down to the right of "Crucible", but I remember starting a bit further left and then traversing right into the climb (below ?) the first bolt. Probably to get protection before the first bolt.

P1 - Climb the friction slab past 6 bolts to a fixed anchor. 5.8 / 5.8+ 170 ft I remember being glad I had a small wire brush to remove any "dusty rock & lichen" for the crux moves.

P2 - Continue up past 2 bolts to the fixed anchor at the far right end of the large overlap. 5.6 G/PG 110 ft

We then rapped off.

Adirondack Rock continues:

P3 - Moves over the overlap at a bulge and a bolt to a fixed anchor. 35 ft 5.8

P4 - Climbs the black streak to the top past a bolt and a crack to a fixed anchor. 130 ft 5.6

Location 

This climb is located on the slab left of the usual climbs like "Matrix" and "Little Finger."

Approach: From the boat landing move more directly up, making a Class 3-4 / easy 5 move or two to the tree ledge that marks the base of these climbs. Beware of lose rocks if people are below at the boat landing.

Protection 

Std rack


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By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Aug 19, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

P1 of this route is pretty real deal. While all of the information above is accurate, I failed to realize that 6 bolts in 170' means 30' of climbing between each bolt. Expect long runouts on pure friction for the first few bolts where ground fall is possible (though it may be so low angle that you could cheese-grate yourself to a halt before decking).

The final pitch had a full coat of dirt making it impossible to climb with any degree of enjoyment. I down climbed the entire pitch about 40' shy of the top anchors in utter disgust. If you can manage a power washer up to this point, it will be well used.

Rack is 6 draws and 1 or 2 finger-sized cams + PAS for the bolted anchors.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 20, 2017

My guess...you were the 2nd, 3rd or (at most) 4th party on that upper pitch. Rosecrans has quite a good "head" (i.e. P1 of Little Finger Direct, plus a host of other routes here-there-and-everywhere in the semi-backcountry of the 'Dacks.) Glad you liked the lower section..I thought it really nice.

Did you have a wire brush? It's pretty std equipment when venturing into these little-to-never-climbed climbs.

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