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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Season: all
Page Views: 2,186
Submitted By: Steve Shiflett on Oct 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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It is a bit overhung haha.

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Hard crimping and an early crux right off the ground. The climbing remains sustained up to the first roof and the second crux. The most technical part of the climb is working up to and clipping the permenant chain draw, and involves a insecure finger lock. Then two more bolts of sustained climbing to the anchors. Probably the best and hardest 13a's at the quarry.


Located in the slide zone just left of the easy routes at the far right. Located right in front of the bench and climbs straight through the steep, blocky roofs.


11 bolts to ring anchors

Photos of Kingpin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I think he was happy to have pulled all of the mov...
I think he was happy to have pulled all of the mov...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing through the clouds.
Climbing through the clouds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike crushing the lower section
Mike crushing the lower section
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike crimping hard
Mike crimping hard
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12

Comments on Kingpin Add Comment
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By Alain Aleksandro De la Tejera
From: Riverside, Ca
Nov 17, 2013

Those familiar with the route recognize the crux located just above the finger-crack in the center of the route. A hold near the top has broken off, making the new crux higher up above the chain-draw. Its funky and not so obvious, making the climb much more sustained than before. Those with a longer reach should have no problem with the center-crux, yet may have a great time unlocking the new crux near the top. A great route that I encourage everyone to try.
By John Ericson
From: USA
Nov 25, 2014

Great route! The clipping finger lock felt very secure for me. But that is how it goes with cracks, everything comes down to finger size.
By Alex Shainman
Dec 22, 2016

I took 4 older looking draws off this route a couple days ago...ID them if they're yours, if you want them back. We didn't find it necessary for draws to be on those bolts as they're relatively easy to hang; it only forces others to clip and trust weathered gear. The single chain draw on the other hand is nice to have in place for that one clip, although a steel biner with a captive pin would be even better than the aluminum biner which is there now.

I also disagree with the OP as we found the first half quite easy compared to the upper half. I imagine multiple holds have broken (just like sooo many other routes of all grades at this chosspile which we love so much haha). 2 cruxes: the moves over the roof above the vertical crack/block are hard and the finger jam move at the chain draw too. Compared to multiple photos I've seen, a few of the sequences are totally different now.

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