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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Nate Brown, Calder Stratford, TDA??? 98 or 99
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jul 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Me finally making it to the third bolt. 2nd to 3rd...


Yesssss, more choss


Bowling Alley



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Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying from the top of the first pitch
Belaying from the top of the first pitch

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By ZachBradford
Sep 3, 2009

Ascends east facing slab on the main wall through 8 bolts to chain anchors. 5.8+ "Crux" at the second bolt the rest of the climb is mostly 5.7. This route may be considered a Cedar classic.

  • *NEVER climb the lower pitch with another party above you. They will be pitching choss off the top.**

Optional second pitch- 5.9
Continue past the chain anchors up slab for 3-4 bolts. You then meet a vertical face. Prepare your self for some serious choss the higher you go. Pass 3 bolts ending on a nice ledge with a anchor that will hold but must be replaced. (May have been replaced July 09?)

I enjoy the pitch due to the view and exposure but if choss scares you then stay clear of this pitch. A helmet for your belayer is a good idea.
By Jared R
Oct 7, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

2nd pitch rappel anchors for King Pin and Direct Route need to be replaced. They are really bad. There is one bomber bolt and 2 scary cemented pins. Half of the cement has eroded out of the holes leaving about an inch or more of the pin exposed. SCARY! The pitch is way fun though.
By Jared R
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Scott Greenhalgh put up the second pitch solo, with a hand drill. Nice work Scott.
By the professor
Oct 30, 2013

In addition to choss up high, it's 20-25 feet from the last bolt to the anchors on the second pitch. As of last week, those anchors are still poor. On the bright side, there is only one move of 5.9 and it is close to a good bolt.
By James Wieman
From: Southern Utah
Nov 10, 2013

WARNING. Bad anchors on top of the second pitch. I pulled out one of the older ones with little more than a tug yesterday. Two bolts remain at the top. But only one looks solid, with the other looking pretty sketchy.
By Scott Greenhalgh
From: New Hartford, Iowa
Aug 23, 2016

As of August 2, 2016; the second pitch now has an additional lead bolt. It was placed in the most solid looking rock which is in a recess about 7 feet right and 4 feet above the previous bolt. This bolt is not visible to the leader, and you would want to traverse straight right for 7 feet from the last bolt. The anchor also has an additional bolt giving it two solid bolts.
By JK- Branin
From: SLC
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

First pitch feels harder every time I do this... I don't do it often enough to remember specific holds or sequences, but the rock is awful enough and the traffic high enough I wouldn't be at all surprised if we're losing holds.

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