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Indian Pipe 
King Philip 

King Philip 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 2/18/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 13
Submitted By: M Sprague on Feb 19, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: King Philip - V3-4 highball

Description 

Fun committing highball - Stand start under the wide slot at the top and at the little left facing corners down low. Take your pick of the available holds (I used two underclings), pull on and get establish high enough to reach a sharp incut flake with a thumb catch with your left hand, or go all the way up to a good incut pocket in the back if you are tall. A high right pinch will then get you up to a sloper where you can match. Bring your feet up, so you can reach a good edge in a seam up and out left from which you can gain the good horizontal. Carefully top out through the slot.

The sit down start should add considerable difficulty, and the low traverse in from the left even more.

Location 

near the middle of the high face, directly below the wide slot at the top

Protection 

multiple pads and a good spot. The landing is rocky and it is highball. Don't fall from high.


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By RhodeIslandJeff
From: Westerly, RI
May 8, 2013

I was cleaning the flake to left on the start and a piece fell out making a sidepull flake which made a substantially better starting hold than the left undercling. Unfortunately it also added about 6 inches in reach to the incut hold you can dyno to. Might be an easier start for someone tall but that upper incut is anything but easy. I stuck that thing like 6 times and each time I fell off once I tried bumping up to a better hand hold or took my left foot off. I've been climbing pretty regular and King Phillip sent me packing with a handful of blisters (using the right handed 3 finger jam start hold is easier than the crimpy undercling but has a price). Definitely in the V4+ range in my opinion and would be a 4 star problem if the landing was better. Metacom would be proud.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 9, 2013

With the new hold, maybe the sit-down start will be more worthy of working on. I gave the route the grade of V3-4 because it felt a little easier than Squatch to me, but more committing with the sketchier landing. It was just a guesstimate though.