King Otto's Castle Rock Climbing
King Otto's Castle
is a large imposing formation directly behind some campsites with numerous routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on it's south and west faces. Face climbing is primarily the name of the game here but a few decent cracks exist as well.
Due to it's location remember to be courteous and ask before climbing here if the campsites are occupied.
Some of the better routes here include Sweat Band
(5.10c), Goodbye Mr. Bond
(5.10c), Casino Royale
(5.11a) and Panama Red
Located in the center of the campground directly across the road from Condor Rock
Weather station 6.3 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in King Otto's Castle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in King Otto's Castle
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for King Otto's Castle:
Sweat Band 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Panama Red 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For King Otto's Castle
Panama Red 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : King Otto's Castle
Panama Red runs up the dark desert patina between Quivering Savages and Sweat Band. Scramble up the initial slab to the base of a right-arching seam on the headwall. A ladder of steep, positive crimps runs up the seam and the face above. Originally a top-rope problem, it was retrobolted into a sport route in the early '90s by some of my compatriots as I stood watch on the summit. Alas, this so offended a local (who had no involvement or history with the route) that he chopped it back to a to...[more] Browse More Classics in California
BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle (L-R) 1. Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.1...
Goodbye Mr. Bond (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by...
BETA PHOTO: Elizabeth Rodriguez (Sweat Band) on the left and L...
BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle, South Face Photo by Bob Gaines
BETA PHOTO: King Otto's Castle-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 3, 2003
Approach through family site 31.
By Chris Collins
From: Quincy, California
Jan 5, 2011
What is the bolted route between Panama Red and Sweat Band? It uses the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverses up and left to a third bolt, then onto the seam of Panama Red. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 5, 2011
That route is called Casino Royale (5.11a), and its listed here on Mountain Project.