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King of Pain 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Martin Veillon
Page Views: 1,813
Submitted By: Ben May on Nov 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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TR on King of Pain

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


This climb has a bit of variety. It starts on a slight overhang then it's all face climbing after that. If you want a real challenge, hit up Eagle's Talons (5.12) on the short face above your anchor.


Starts directly to the right of Icarus. (It's the first bolted line to the right of the dihedral.)



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By mike74
Feb 5, 2012

This route is a mixed route (trad/sport) or TR.... first bolt about 30 feet off the ground.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route has gear placements in the horizontal "gaps" leading up to the first bolt (good Alien placements) Good route!
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Oct 15, 2012

King of Pain is the 5.9+ R seam to face with an old bolt about 10 feet right of Icarus. I'd guess about 60 feet long. It can be toproped once you do Icarus.

(Icarus is not on this topo but it's the 11a corner 6' right of Masterpieces. A circled X originally meant a bolt with no hanger - some have hangers now. )
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 21, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Its about 60 feet long, protected by 2 rusty 1/4" rivets. The first is quite high and has a keyhole hanger hammered on to it. Not a sport climb, but at least the anchor is bomber if you want to TR it.

I ended up climbing just to the right of the seam, doesn't seem to be a route, but was more fun than the dirty crack.
By Brandon B
Jun 20, 2017

Can this route be TR'd with out leading? just hike up around and set the rope up on the anchor?
By Ben May
From: Escondido, CA
Jun 20, 2017

It can. Walk around climber's right.

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