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Conventional Warfare T,S 
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King of Kings T 
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 
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King of Kings roof finish (P-2) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Brian Espe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: nbrown on Jun 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: a different angle of the roof

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is perhaps the steepest climbing at Lower Hawksbill, climbing the series of overhangs up and right of the chain anchor on P-1. It can be done in one pitch (originally done on the FA) but might be better broken up into two to reduce rope drag. It would also be a great way to finish up "Conventional Warfare" by linking it into one long pitch (it's directly above the bolted corner).

The 2 bolts placed into the roof's are monsters (4+ inches deep) that were laboriously hand drilled to make them bombproof, so feel free to take the ride...

P-1 Climb King Of Kings to the anchor and either belay there or move right and slightly down to belay directly below roofs at a gear belay (cams).

P-2 Climb past a bolt in the seam to the roof. Clip another bolt and crank out the series of overhangs past some gear and another bolt to a thank God ledge below the last roof. Hand sized cams protect the last section to the 2 bolt anchor lower off (fixed biners).


See picture topo.


3 bolts and a medium sized rack of cams. No nuts required.

Photos of King of Kings roof finish (P-2) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route is in red, with blue marking King Of Kings a...
BETA PHOTO: Route is in red, with blue marking King Of Kings a...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the 3rd bolt
At the 3rd bolt

Comments on King of Kings roof finish (P-2) Add Comment
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By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2013

Linking into this from King of kings is insane! With the added slings to cut back on rope drag, the fall potential was wild. I was too pumped to place, but there is some gear along the way that could minimize the action between bolts. Good job placing the bomber bolts... and so few... kept it exciting. There are some sharp edges my rope ran over up high but I didn't sling a piece up there so it was my fault. Slings!

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