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king of guano 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Seb Foissac
Season: all
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: donggua on Sep 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Huecos!

Description 

This is probably the best easy route in the great arch. Super fun. No single move harder than 10a. There are several hand-free rest positions on this route, making the rate only 10a/b in my opinion. If you want to test your endurance, then dont take advantage of these rest points (it would be a 10b/c because of the pump at the end).

Location 

right side of the great arch. the second bolted line to the right of an obvious traverse bolt line

Protection 

The protection is very good until the final two bolts, its almost a 15 feet runout; the moves are easy but be careful especially if you feel there's nothing left in your arm. A BD size 4 cam should work here (not tested, take this suggestion with a grain of salt) for a natural protection to ease your mind, or bring an extra sling, there's an arch two moves above the second to last bolt, you can girth hitch with your sling to protect (this is what i did).


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By David Wieder
From: Salt Lake, UT
Nov 10, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Amazing route. Unfortunately, it lives up to it's name as much of it is covered in bird shit - although it seems like most of the climbing inside the arch has this problem. The runout at the top is sketchy. Like the OP states, a large cam would probably work. Or maybe someone wants to add a bolt...

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