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King of Carrot Flowers  

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Umbel. 2014
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 28, 2017

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Description 

Begin by navigating up thru the broken cliff band, chossy and loose. My first solid piece of gear was a silver mastercam/tcu placement that you'll sling long and begin to climb up and left to better rock. Place pro wherever you can find it until you find yourself engaging the crux moves. Here in a downward facing horizontal you'll place the crux pro. I remember using a purple/blue master cam, backed up with a blue tcu. From here make a strenuous lunge up and left for a flattish hold (letterbox you'll locate from the upper right side of belay terrace) that once you reel in and establish feet, slam in a finger size cam. The lunge to this flattish hold (crux) is somewhat low percentage and requires an attentive belay. If you fail to stick the move there is a likely chance you'll collide with your belayer and if your gear is not solid, you'll deck. From here, do a committing move and gain a stance on the flattish hold. Continue up towards the roof/bulge on very cool gritstone, conglomerate rock. Climbing eases and pro is good. Pull the roof on jugs and establish yourself on upper face and navigate yourself up and slightly left staying right of the wide crack placing gear where you can. Good trees at top for lowering off.

Location 

This route was spotted from atop the terrace you gain to belay from. It's amongst some of the sport climbs and follows an unlikely line. The key that unlocked this route was the flattish hold with a letterbox slot. You can see this from leaning up against the pine tree located climbers right on this terrace. Locating this hold will give you the location of where to start in the choss. This is a heads up lead and is committing because of the low crux and funky gear. I don't wanna give this route an X rating and scare people from getting on this, but it is serious and groundfall is possible. With that being said if you're getting on 12 gear you'll likely have plenty of knowledge and expierence and find this route is within reason, quite fun and exciting!

Protection 

Single rack of cams to 2" with a focus on small cams. Don't remember stoppers being necessary, though I'm sure you could place them. A couple of 2' slings are good for rope drag.


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By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
May 1, 2017

Ballsy. Nice work. Named after the song?

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