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King of all Media 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Howard Stern
Page Views: 2,134
Submitted By: duh on Feb 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Starting up the King of all Media


This route is the best one on this wall. It starts in the middle of the wall and climbs thru a series of underclings, side pulls and crossovers to the obvious left leaning crack which is followed to the anchors.

.....OH??? and I almost forgot... There is a HAND JAM!!!!


5 bolts, Metolius rap hanger anchors

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By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Feb 15, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

HAND JAM you forgot to mention the HAND JAM!
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 15, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The hand jam is key, but sport climbers don't know how to hand jam!
By duh
Feb 16, 2007

So.... that's why so many guys get spit off the top? They don't know how to HAND JAM!

but did Chris just say that I forgot how to jam.. or that I just forgot to mention the jam? And why do I feel so dirty when he said "sport climber"?

I know it's not a 4* route for the area, but it is a 4* for the wall.
By C Miller
From: CA
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Steep and in your face to the 3rd bolt (good technique helps) then get the hand jam and turn the lip to much easier balance climbing and the anchors. This route is lots of fun with a great variety of moves throughout.
By Howie Stern
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Dec 23, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Glad people seem to like my route. It was my first bolting job back in February of 1997...Kevin Thaw did the second ascent and confirmed it at 11d. I was stoked that he enjoyed it...And yep, the hand jam was the key...It thought the line was cool because its pretty in your face from the moment you step off the ground...
By Clif Clap
May 22, 2016

I'm a sport climber and this route taught me how to hand jam. It taught me how to take my time and let go of expectations. It taught me to call my mom to see how she's doing, and tell my girlfriend nice things. It taught me how to be a better person and how to love again. And did I mention the hand jam?

Cool route. Got on it because it reminded me of Little Stiffy and there were definitely similarities. Bouldery and sequential. Big moves to big features on steep rock. The closing moves are technical with some difficult feet. I still think Little Stiffy is the better route, and is certainly easier. But this a great one for the style.

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