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The Checkerboard Wall
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Checkerboard Wall T 
King Me T 
Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral, The T 
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Ouiji Board T 

King Me 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 325', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Wallace
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring , Fall
Page Views: 2,893
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Oct 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: If approaching King Me from the top Maiden Voyage'...

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Climb the wall above the Checker Board Wall's traverse ledge.

This is 3 pitches long. Look for steep, right-facing flake feature 6 feet off ledge.

P1. 5.10. Climb past a fixed pin (out of sight 30 feet up the pitch and left of start of route). (More of a trail blaze) stay just left of pin, then head up and left. Once you reach moderate ground, head up 30 feet to a good ledge and #0.75/#2 Camalot belay.

P2. 5.9. Climb a big, right-facing corner. At end of corner traverse, go left under cool nose feature.

P3. 5.10. Move around nose left then up OW to a hand crack through a small roof and the rim.



Photos of King Me Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of pitch 2.
Top of pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Wilson in the crux wide section of P3, Kin...
Patrick Wilson in the crux wide section of P3, Kin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me (J. Antin) starting up P1 of King Me. This is j...
Me (J. Antin) starting up P1 of King Me. This is j...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jenny Antin on P2 of King Me, just before the trav...
Jenny Antin on P2 of King Me, just before the trav...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up King Me.
Starting up King Me.
Rock Climbing Photo: King Me topo.
King Me topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh starting pitch 2, King Me.
BETA PHOTO: Josh starting pitch 2, King Me.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mado on Pitch 2, King Me.
BETA PHOTO: Mado on Pitch 2, King Me.

Comments on King Me Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2017
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 14, 2008

Did this route the other day and thought I'd add a couple of things.
You can get a topo at the ranger station. Some of the things on that topo are wrong or misleading. For one there is no "ramp" identifying the start. There is also no "tunnel through".

The route is fun and good quality climbing. The fixed pin on pitch one leaves something to be desired. It's a KB with the eye sticking about an inch and a half out of the rock. It's also the only decent piece you'll get for awhile, and the rock isn't great. The climbing isn't to hard in that section however.

This climb is better than the hump up the "descent" gully.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
May 17, 2009

To identify the start, look for 4 black streaks on a wall left. The climb begins on loose appearing flakes 15 ft up.

There is a fair bit requiring a trundle on pitch 2. I'd recommend this route over the exit gully. One star is about right.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Found this route quite enjoyable.
First pitch has really good 5.10 with sharp holds and pretty good pro.
Watch for a loose block just right of the pin.
P2 is a long wide crack on pretty clean rock. Not bad at all.
BTW, I find it surprising that this route would not have been climbed before '07... was that pin really placed in 2007?
By Jeremy Werlin
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really fun route with lots of good, varied climbing. The route has cleaned up nicely and is a combine with the Monkey or Maiden. Strongly recommended.
By Dave Vaughan
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2014

My partner Mark and I were in the Black last weekend and decided to climb “King Me” as an alternative to shwacking up the gully post Checkerboard Wall climbing per the climbing ranger’s recommendation. We got a very faint copy of the topo (missing a number of details due to poor print quality as we would discover) from the ranger who also said “look for a juniper tree and cairn at the base of the route”. Well, there must be more than one cairn next to a juniper tree on the traverse ramp off the top of Checkerboard Wall….

We found a juniper and a cairn and enough route features to match our ailing topo, so we headed upwards. Pretty quickly it was obvious that our line was likely rarely or never climbed, but we kept going through 3 pitches of fair to marginal quality climbing. We were really wondering why the ranger would recommend a pile like this, but on the drive home, we took a look at MProject and saw the picture and detailed topo of King Me. We obviously did not climb King Me (apologies to the climbing ranger for comments made en route ;-)), instead we climbed a line a couple of hundred feet to the right of King Me. Unless some other suckers have climbed this line, we’re thinking this might be an FA, so we’ll go with the name “Choss Me” and a grade of 5.10+ DB (don’t bother). See route pic I posted if you’re interested…. Gotta love the Black!

Rock Climbing Photo: Picture showing King Me and "Choss Me" a...
Picture showing King Me and "Choss Me" above the Checkerboard Wall in the Black Canyon.
By jeff haskell
Jun 11, 2014

Those vertical zebra stripes, just to the left of the climb, are a great way to confirm you're at the correct start.
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

T'was my first day in the Black, so that could impact how I viewed this link-up. The ranger recommend we link Maiden Voyage into King Me to the rim.

A few thoughts: we are thrilled to have topped out via King Me, rather than slog up the gully. However I think King Me is a completely different league of climbing, compared to what you will encounter on Maiden Voyage, and I wouldn't recommend it to a party whose "limit" was Maiden Voyage (very moderate climbing on solid rock).

The moves on the first pitch are relatively straightforward, but I felt the first 30-40 feet of climbing to be no-fall terrain, which is why I gave the route a PG-13 rating.

The area near the KB is fun and reminded me of corner climbing in Eldo..only looser ;)

Go do it, but feel solid on 5.10a.
By Lynn S
May 22, 2016

Very good route! Each pitch has its own unique characteristics. If you are solid on 5.10 and have TCUs, pitch one will be a blast for you. The finishing moves on p3 were great exiting out from underneath the bulge. Well done, Josh and Mado!
By tom bohanon
May 26, 2016

Very good route indeed and a great way to finish Maiden Voyage. The runout on P1 is not too bad, and the gear is good protecting the crux.

HELP! I think I left my camera somewhere just to climber's left of the topout. It's a Panasonic point and shoot in a red case, and I would be hugely grateful if someone could return it. Thanks!
By Nick Niebuhr
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I thought this was a pretty good climb! I found more than just the new Black Canyon guide makes it sound like the first pitch only protects with c3s/TCUs, but there are a few good finger-size placements to calm the nerves. The pin seemed pretty solid to me, but the holds above right of it felt a little loose and looked like something big had broken off recently.... Second and third pitch are a hoot! This climb is definitely a step up from Maiden Voyage, much more sustained whereas MV only has a couple short crises surrounded by mostly easy climbing.
By Michael Underwood
From: Denver, CO
Jun 8, 2017

We linked Maiden Voyage to King Me (a worthy combination), but we were at first a bit disoriented and didn't know where King Me was located with respect to Maiden Voyage. I've posted a beta photo to help with the linkup. You'll be standing near a huge boulder just left of pitch 5 on Maiden Voyage. Look around until you spot the formation I boxed in red. While you can't use this formation to find the start of the route, you can at least use it to get moving in the correct general direction.

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