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King Me 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula (1990)
Page Views: 3,871
Submitted By: DaveB on May 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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BETA PHOTO: King Me, this line follows the path in between the...


Quintessential Red River Gorge sport climbing! Pumpy, sustained, pockets, sidepulls, this route has it all! From ground, leap to gain the overhanging start using pockets (jugs?) and generous edges. Moving up, you'll begin to feel the pump set in, but keep yourself together for thin technical moves to undercling (crux) and clip. Finish on slab to anchors.

(Cherish and savor every rest. Plenty of hardmen, not used to the Red's steepness and endurance demands, have humbly succumbed.)


The approach trail meets the wall at No Return (handcrack in black rock). Go right, pass-by The Underling (obvious recessed rockhouse with roof and hole at rear/right), and two bolted sport routes. King Me is the next bolted line and begins on the outward face/lip of an 8ft roof of sorts. Leap, or use a stepping stone to gain the route.


10 bolts. Anchors. Use at least a 60m rope.

Photos of King Me Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall, sustained, and actually requires some techni...
Tall, sustained, and actually requires some techni...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying a rest on King Me (5.11b). Red River Gorg...
Enjoying a rest on King Me (5.11b). Red River Gorg...

Comments on King Me Add Comment
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By Kris Gorny
Jun 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

My absolute favorite 11b! This one alone is worth driving across few states.
By Paul Corsaro
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 27, 2008

possibility of decking if you fall at the second clip.
By ziggy
Oct 21, 2009

Classic, painfully classic. Thinking the pump alone is the crux of this route will only get you in trouble at the top.
By Eric Hirst
Nov 18, 2011

As of 11/11/11, the SS sport anchors at the top were getting pretty worn. We added an old bail biner to the mix. Very nice route.
By Cragmama Lineberry
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Big fall potential (all air though) if you blow the crux. Exciting climbing the whole way up!
From: michigan
Aug 11, 2012

oh, i blew the crux and took the big fall. soft catch and its comfy though. super fun climbing. sporty!
By CharlesErickson
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The route to go for at Eastern Sky Bridge!

This route should give you a little pump and it definitely provides great holds throughout.

A must do indeed!
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2017

Best route at the grade in the Red! Way better than that Brown Sunrise one or whatever at North 40. Also a great test to on-sight (and not in the same way as Prime Directive.)

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