REI Community
Calaveras Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fallen Angel T 
Fine Line S 
King Kong T 
Layin' On The Hands T 
Medicine Man T 
Mighty Joe Young T 
Mr. Stiffy T 
Old Smokey T 
Sands of Time T 
Schizophrenic Dike T 
Silk Road (High Times) T 
Wall of the Worlds T 
Unsorted Routes:

King Kong 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Smokestack Lightning on May 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Totally Buzzed Pinnacle. King Kong in green. Pho...

Description 

King Kong is aptly named for the terrific reachy moves through the upper undercling roof and finishing corner. Handcrack, mantles, stem corner, undercling roof and face: this pitch packs it all in 100 feet.

Begin in a gently overhanging handcrack located on the right wall of the prominent left-facing corner. Pull around the arete and follow lower angle cracks through a series of blocky mantles to a stance below a clean left-facing stem corner. Ascend the golden corner to a stance beneath the final roof. Ape your way out the undercling roof (2 bolts) and face the crux moves guarding the anchor.

Think to yourself: what would King Kong do?

Location 

King Kong is located on the Totally Buzzed Pinnacle in the Lost World area - east and uphill of Hourglass Buttress. Hike to the base of Sands of Time/Silk Road. Continue left (east) and uphill along the base of Cal Dome. Pass Hyena Arch and Rainbow Arch. When you approach the third arch begin looking for the routes. They're just uphill and beyond a large detached flake that forms a cave/walk-through at the base of the dome. Look for a prominent left-facing corner and a bolted dike on the face directly to the left. This is Totally Buzzed Pinnacle.

King Kong begins in a slightly overhanging handcrack on the right wall of the large left-facing corner.

~45-60 minutes from road.

Protection 

Doubles to 1.5". Optional singles to 3".

Fixed anchor.

100' rap to ground. 60m rope stretcher - watch ends.


Comments on King Kong Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About