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Falcon Slab/Zydeco Wall
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King Ex T,TR 
Zydeco Fool T,TR 

King Ex 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kelsey Gray, Shasta Miller
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: coldclimb on Jul 15, 2014

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Tracy Borland on the delightfully slabby crack mov...

Description 

This route follows directly up the recently cleaned large crack system up the right side of the slab. Pro can be tricky for the first section of the route, but small gear gets you through to better pro higher. Follow the crack almost to its top, and then step left on a small seam to join Zydeco Fool for the well-protected crux move at a bolt just before the anchor. Most of this route is closer to 5.8, but the crux move bumps the rating up. Shares an anchor with Zydeco Fool.

Location 

Follows the obvious large crack system on the right side of the slab.

Protection 

Small to medium gear.
Two bolt anchor with rings.


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