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King Dinosaur 
King is Dead, The 

King Dinosaur 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
Page Views: 1,743
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Mar 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Nicholas Rondilone working King Dinosaur. Photo by...


Two move wonder. The first is the crux.
Start on two slots in the middle of the face, one slightly higher than the other. Make a HARD move up to a sharp hold and toss to the top.
I heard that the bottom hold used to be better than the top, if that's the case, then the bottom hold has broken significantly.
I'm using the difficulty grade in the book. I've climbed other v7s and this felt harder, but I'd like a second opinion.


If you found the boulder, you found the problem.


two pads and a spot are nice, but not necessary.

Photos of King Dinosaur Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the first move, only one more left!
Sticking the first move, only one more left!
Rock Climbing Photo: King Dino starts in the center of the face and hea...
BETA PHOTO: King Dino starts in the center of the face and hea...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 14, 2017
By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 8, 2010

I can't really add too much of a second opinion other than to say it's freakin' hard. On other climbs in the 7 range here and at the 'yard I can usually make at least a competent effort, but I can't even find a position to get my feet off the ground on this thing. Do you use the foothold that's way out to the left and try to throw, or am I completely botching the beta?
By Sean Denny
From: Irvine
Mar 9, 2010

Yeah, I use a foothold out left. I seem to recall hiking my right foot up there, establishing, and throwing.
Truth be told, I think that if you can get on the wall and comfortably hold that starting position, you can do the problem.
This thing is bloody hard to be sure. I'm just reluctant to boost the grade due to my lack of experience with the V8+ range.
My only gauge is that it took me a few weeks of attempts (probably around 100) and some serious psyche, whereas other 7s (smooth criminal, gangster hippy, call me right, etc) took me at most a week or two of work.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 21, 2011

It's hard fer an old git like me to remember exactly but I do think the first hold is smaller than it was but I always thought it was very hard for it's grade anyway. Wills graded it, and he's got very strong and also very small fingers. The way he used to hike the thing it was hard for me to uprate it but it's always felt WAY harder than any other V7 that I ever did. Desperate.
By Bob Banks
Mar 11, 2011

That little piece broke off the pocket 10 years ago...didn't affect the difficulty. I've seen [little] guys hike it and say no way was it V7. I always thought the rating was fine. Also Sean, this may have felt harder than those 3 problems because none of them are V7.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jun 13, 2011

I'm thinking of starting a support group for people who are working this problem and have big fingers. I went for it today on this problem, and busted a tip because I couldn't cram my damn sausage fingers in to the slot.

Session ruined.

Still, rad problem.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Mar 1, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

I got on this for the first time today and sent it pretty quick. It is really my style of problem though. I don't really know if it is harder than V7, I have yet to work on anything V8 so not really sure what the grade feels like. Defiantly not 8+ or 9 though.

My beta was a right foot on the good foot hold out left and just do a twisting throw up to the decent crimp. A key was to trust your left fingers not blowing out of the shallow pocket.

I loved it others with me hated it.
By Sean Denny
From: Irvine
Jan 13, 2013

Re-climbed this on Wednesday. Fantastic piece of rock. You guys are all right. V7 it is.

Any word on the sit? It looks hard, and I seem to recall some dude telling me years ago that it went at V10.
By Gregory Su
Jul 25, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

I'm sure finger size makes big a difference on this problem. When I tried it a while ago I found the big throw move very hard, even after establishing on the starting crimps. For some reason, it felt quite a bit easier yesterday. For the left hand crimp, instead of e.g. stacking my thumb on my index finger, I found it helpful to push up with my thumb against the surface of the rock, effectively adding some downward force to the crimp and making the left hand a little more solid. Some may find this helpful, but seems like it won't work for everyone.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jan 1, 2015

A quick note about this problem and my relationship with it:

When I was climbing all the time in my twenties, I used to work this problem every now and then, but always got absolutely shut down. The crimp was too small, too sharp, and I was too much a wuss. Then, I started a business, got married, got a dog, had a kid, got super busy, and basically didn't go to the Mouth for a long, long time. And this last season, I hung out exclusively in my garage for one-hour chunks of time and sessioned on my hangboard. That was it. No outdoor climbing.

Then, at the ripe age of thirty-three, and for the first time in forever, my wife Mary and I (and my newborn son) came to Lizard's Mouth. I thought "hey, I should look at King Dinosaur again".

Hiked it. Easily. Then did it again, just for fun. Moral: hangboarding works, and thirty is the new twenty.

Like Sean, my question to the world is HAS ANYONE DONE A SIT-START?

That would be oh-so-proud.
By Bob Banks
Jan 2, 2015

Wills did a lower start eons ago, but I wouldn't call it a "sit". Said it was V9ish I recall.
By Duke Lettieri
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 5, 2016
rating: V7 7A+

Video of me sending King Dinosaur. Super fun!

By Alan Zhan
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 14, 2017

I gave this some hard burns in December and I have to say I wouldn't describe that bottom right hand hold as a slot... more like a miserable slopey crimp.

That said the first move is $$, only stuck it once, but I've never felt so good popping off a hold!

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