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One Of These Days Buttress
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King Diamond T 
Little Miss Manners T 
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One Of These Days T 
Pictures of Me T 

King Diamond 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Al Swanson, Paul Crawford, Banny Root, 1988
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Jun 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Getting close to the P.1 anchor. 3/7/2017

Description 

This is a varied crack/face climb emphasizing flared finger jams. There are several 5.11b cruxes and the climbing is generally sustained in nature. The route may be fairly spicy on lead, but I suspect the leader may be at risk of big but safe falls in several sections, rather than serious bodily harm. The start seems like it would be "head's up" on lead, however. I will update the description once I lead.

This is a quality line, deserving some more of the traffic that its much more popular neighbor to the left understandably takes.

Location 

This route pursues the thin crack to the right of One of these Days, staying right around the OOTD main face into the dihedral. There is a second pitch that is said to turn the roof on the right, but I did not climb this to describe.

Protection 

nuts; finger-sized -> 2"-3" cams; one piton; to chains with Fixe-style carabiner anchors


Photos of King Diamond Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back down from P.1 anchor.
Looking back down from P.1 anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of King Diamond.
BETA PHOTO: The start of King Diamond.

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By Drew Wigington
From: SLT, Ca
Oct 3, 2016

Piton popped out just so everyone knows.

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