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King Charles T 

King Charles 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike McGrale, Chad Goldstein, Urmas Franosch 2000's GU
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Dec 5, 2016

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RS leading the summit block. Pic:NK

Description 

A varied route on good orange rock. There is a weird mix of hammered stoppers and other fixed gear alongside the bolted anchors.. maybe the next party can help clean up the mess.

P1) Thin cracks lead up and left towards an obvious RF wide crack/chimney. Pass a bolt in the wide en route to a bolted anchor. 5.9
P2) Awesome stemming up a RF corner with double cracks, exit right and back left past 3 bolts to a bolted anchor. 5.10
P3) Funky tight waterchute & crack with some cool body english to bolted anchor. 5.10
P4) Out left onto the steep face past 3 bolts (crux), then runout slab past a couple more bolts and an exciting finish to a bolted anchor. 5.11a
P5) Traverse left or right on the dike and climb munge-y cracks up to the ridgeline. Worst pitch on route. Neither option looked good; we went left. 5.hard/weird R
P6&7) Easier blocky terrain up the ridge. We simulclimbed up to the summit block. 5.7
P8) Face climb the knobby summit block past one bolt to the top. Spectacular finish! 5.8?

The route was equipped for double-rope rappels from fixed anchors, but since we only had one rope we downclimbed over the summit and made improvised rappels into the gully below, leaving stoppers and slings along the way.

Location 

Park at Ainslee Meadow and ascend the gully directly behind. There are 3 prominent orange aretes visible from the 395 - King Charles takes a direct line up the center of the wall on the "middle arete".

Protection 

Standard double rack and stoppers. Bolted anchors through P4 and some fixed nuts/slings above that for rappels.


Photos of King Charles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: RS leading P1. Pic: NK
RS leading P1. Pic: NK
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil searching for the path on P5, King Charles
Neil searching for the path on P5, King Charles
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil following the runout portion of P4, King Char...
Neil following the runout portion of P4, King Char...
Rock Climbing Photo: King Charles (approximate line) as seen from the W...
King Charles (approximate line) as seen from the W...
Rock Climbing Photo: NK following the wide P1
NK following the wide P1
Rock Climbing Photo: NK on the P3 waterchute, King Charles
NK on the P3 waterchute, King Charles
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil Kauffman stemming up P2 of King Charles
Neil Kauffman stemming up P2 of King Charles

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