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King Arthur's Seat 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Gene Vallee 6/13/2000
Page Views: 1,659
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: We decided on another way down.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb up past two hangerless bolts to an easy chimney. Belay on above the chimney. 110' 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb past 2 more hangerless bolts (crux), pass a hueco that takes a #3 camalot, and belay on a nice ledge off of cams. 70' 5.9-.

Walk up the ridge to the "natural boullard" anchor.

Pitch 3: Continue to the summit, passing a pin drilled pin, and some sandy rock. Summit anchor consisted of a stopper and a slung horn. 50'(from the bollard) 5.7.

We linked pitches 1 and 2 with little drag.

Descent: Do one long rappel down the east face off the natural bollard.

Location 

Scramble up to the SW corner of the ridge. Traverse east on a slab for 15-20 feet to the first bolt.

Protection 

Single set of cams. (all we placed were a #2 and #3 camalot), runners, tat, Stoppers or rivet hangers for the bolts, two sixty meter ropes.


Photos of King Arthur's Seat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: linked pitch 1 and 2, to a bolt and natural piece ...
linked pitch 1 and 2, to a bolt and natural piece ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Johanna on the summit, which you have to down clim...
Johanna on the summit, which you have to down clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappel anchor, I extended it with black webbing, b...
BETA PHOTO: Rappel anchor, I extended it with black webbing, b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts at the bollard site.
Bolts at the bollard site.
Rock Climbing Photo: drake and taylor at the crux
drake and taylor at the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: all three of us on top
all three of us on top
Rock Climbing Photo: drake, top of pitch one
drake, top of pitch one
Rock Climbing Photo: drake near the summit pin
drake near the summit pin
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff rappeling the east face.
Jeff rappeling the east face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff at the natural bollard belay.
Jeff at the natural bollard belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Stool on the left and King Arthur's Seat on th...
The Stool on the left and King Arthur's Seat on th...

Comments on King Arthur's Seat Add Comment
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By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

great little adventure, great easy route. we did not find any move harder than 5.7. not much gear needed.
By Lando
From: western Colorado
May 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The natural bollard feature is eroding quickly; it's reminiscent of a sand castle. The wire/bolt is pretty bomber, but to transfer load onto the rappel strands involves swinging out over the edge, putting a good deal of lateral, scrubbing forces on the slung sand pile. This route would benefit from a pair of rappel bolts at the bollard site. The last bolt on P2 would also make a viable place for a rap ring.
By USBRIT Ross
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 24, 2015

Sorry about the hangers ... We did leave them complete on the FA..
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Feb 25, 2016

Pitch 1. First bolt was good. I added a hanger to the second bolt. There is also now a third bolt on this pitch, which nicely protects the follower on the last sandy mantle before gaining the ledge that leads to the chimney. Belay from good cams at the first ledge above the chimney.

Pitch 2. First hangerless pro bolt was sticking out about 1.5 inches and was very loose. I removed this bolt and placed a new one a couple feet to the right and a little bit higher. I added a hanger to the second bolt on this pitch. The critical "edge" for the crux move here is rapidly disintegrating, so we both opted to A0 off the second bolt. There is also now another bolt at the top of this pitch, at the "nice ledge" in Ben's description.

We third-classed from the top of P2 up to the natural bollard. There are now two bolts at the natural bollard rappel site.

Pitch 3 is more like 150' from the bollard to the summit, not 50'. Unprotected 5.1 ramp to flat ledge to a final 5.7 sugary step with drilled piton. We felt like being on a rope for the sandy 5.1 slab right above the bollard; others may not. Summit anchor is a slung block and two fixed nuts.

I'd suggest carrying some webbing/cord for the summit anchor and a wrench for tightening the bolts. Very soft rock, but a pretty fun climb/outing nonetheless.
By Joshua Griffin
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 13, 2017

We rapped down with a single 70 meter rope off the top of the second pitch on the north side. If your rope is trimmed, it definitely won't reach.
By DustinKleckner
Apr 2, 2017

Climbed this last week: an overall enjoyable experience, but the rock really is soft (maybe I'm just too used to Yosemite Granite). I'm not sure where the 5.9 is supposed to be. The move right off the first anchor seemed pretty straightforward, just step up the pockets.

The bolts were almost all in good shape. One of the rap bolts is missing a hanger but seems ok; I replaced the nut being used as a bolt hanger and rapped off it without any issue.

One wrinkle: a hold broke directly below the final piton when I was descending. I thought this section was pretty sketchy -- you are essentially looking at a ground fall if you slip and the rock is super soft. A bolt 5 feet below the piton would make this enormously safer. (The moves are very easy, but the rock quality is especially poor here.)

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