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El Dorado
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Gold S 
Brown Smoothies TR 
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 
Kindergeist T,TR 
Nuggets S 
Olas Negras S 
Poltergeist TR 
Snooze T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: John Dalbey, Mike Morley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: John Dalbey on Dec 19, 2004

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The red dashes on the photo show the crux moves.


This route starts at the base of "Ghost Upstairs" and then goes up and left along a dirty-looking ramp/gully. The climbing looks vegetated and loose but is actually reasonably good. We did this climb using all clean protection. Most of the climbing is very easy, 5.3ish, except the last 15 feet over a bulge are about 5.6. There's one big rock/flake halfway up that seems unsound so beware. We topped out at the new two-bolt anchor placed Nov '04 for Poltergeist. We were careful to stay entirely to the right of the Poltergeist line. The climb is about 40 feet high. This route would be a good training climb for a novice "trad" leader. The route can take a wide variety of passive, active, and natural protection.


Medium nuts, tie-off slings, #2.5 Friend, Yellow Alien, #5 RP, (or other comparable gear).Bolted anchor and chains at the top.

Photos of Kindergeist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows John on the first ascent (well, m...
This photo shows John on the first ascent (well, m...

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By Floyd Hayes
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Slater's guide lists only two climbs for this formation: Poltergeist 5.6 and The Ghost Upstairs 5.5. This climb is the most obvious and natural line on the left side of the formation, plus it's a relatively well protected and easy lead. After looking at the photo and descriptions in Slater's book and leading it onsight, I concluded that this was probably the original Poltergeist. Am I deluded?

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