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Killian's Dead 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,875
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (168)
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Climb the crack running up and slightly left, just to the right of Deck Chairs on the Titanic. This is a good primer for hand jamming technique.


Hexes, stoppers. For TR, a #7 stopper, and some medium length slings will set you right.

Photos of Killian's Dead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Killian's Dead showing with top rope, fun short li...
BETA PHOTO: Killian's Dead showing with top rope, fun short li...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting some gear in before it gets interesting.  ...
Getting some gear in before it gets interesting. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy gives Killian's Dead a thumbs up!
Tommy gives Killian's Dead a thumbs up!
Rock Climbing Photo: Out for a little solo climb.
Out for a little solo climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy (over)racked and starting Killian's Dead.  A...
Tommy (over)racked and starting Killian's Dead. A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Killian's Dead.
Killian's Dead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve (?) stops for a moment to smile for the came...
Steve (?) stops for a moment to smile for the came...

Comments on Killian's Dead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 6, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2001

Nice little climb to do with friends that haven't climbed a lot, because you can try to crank the 3ft roof on a top rope...and your new partners get used to belaying you.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I thought Killian's Dead was a lot of fun. 5.6 lead that takes good gear the whole way. There is a 6 foot section of OW that is difficult to protect, but before and after there is pro. Two ring anchor for lowering and setting TR.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2005

A nice trad route but one I wouldn't recommend as a "first" 5.6 lead. Would make a nice top rope though for those who wish to practice their hand jams and get a feel for what off-widths arel like.
By Buff Johnson
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun little trad line. Taking the roof straight through instead of working the jugfest right-side offers more of a .9 (I really like this harder variant - really good crack moves); the crux .6 crack move is really committing for a lead, just trust the feet.
By Ben Helgeson
From: Denver
Jan 26, 2008

Cool to lead with trad gear, do it and then do the big dihedral....the OW provides good cam practice, and the new anchors up top make it really convenient.
By tom303
From: Colorado
Aug 21, 2011

Good exposure halfway up for such a short climb. Takes mid-sized cams very well, two bolt anchor. Extend the first piece of gear placed to minimize rope drag.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011

Great climb for the grade. Solid gear all the way up.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A little stiff for a 5.6. This has a small bulge, and it is tough to protect in the offwidth section. 5.7 in my opinion! 5.7- if it exists? It's definitely as tough as John Adam's Apple (which is to the right of this route)....
By Kurtis Anderson
Nov 7, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great 5.6 trad climb! I would agree it's a stiff 5.6; Iraqi Road is much easier for similar rating. Recommend placing the first pro (size 1 Camalot works wonders) just north of the roof, agreeing with tom303, to avoid rope drag.
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this without really knowing what it was until I looked it up later.

Really fun with some amazing fist jams and mixed crack/face climbing.

I'd say 5.7 - pretty much vertical and sustained, but still easy.

I've climbed several 5.6s recently - East Crack at the Dome, Coloroddity at Jurassic Park, and Monte Carlo at Riviera. Those climbs were all pretty slabby and all much easier than this one, so I'd call Killian's a 5.7.
By Jeff N
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 15, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I have climbed this and John Adams Adams' Apple (5.7) back to back twice now, and I think Killian's is definitely the harder climb. I agree that this seems harder than a 5.6. Calling this route a 5.7 is more fitting.
By Larry Shaw 1
From: Boulder, CO
May 6, 2017

Fun, easy climb that you can sew up with pro. I don't see any issues with a new trad leader having at it.

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