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Killer Queen 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 6/2013
Page Views: 537
Submitted By: MJM on Aug 15, 2013

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Killer Queen stemming.

Description 

Climb great, righty sidepulls for 2 clips to a strenuous reach to clip C3. At C3, traverse directly left with great hand holds and edges for the feet to clip the high C4. At C4, move right to the vertical corner on edges, pockets, and fun climbing to C6. At C7, move up or right to the gray face past C8 to the chained anchors.

Location 

Killer Queen is just right of Protect the King.

Protection 

7 clips to chained anchors.


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By Hiro
From: Colorado
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

On-sighted this yesterday after staring at it while doing Protect the King next door. It looked interesting from the ground and not that difficult - it's not listed in the current (2010) D'Antonio Shelf guidebook. I wrote it in my book as route 113.5 on p.55.

Anyways, route requires various techniques which I thought was fun - some crack technique, stemming, and sidepulls. Plenty of bolts to protect it I thought. I'm a 10c/d sport climber and a 5.8-5.9 trad climber. I thought this was a 5.8 or 5.9 difficulty - I'll give it 5.9 since the original rating here seems to be 10a. Seeing as you're probably standing there to do the King, you might as well do this.