REI Community
search
Advanced
The J Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
J Wall, The S 
Killer Joe S 
Mind if I do a J? S 

Killer Joe 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: Manjushri on Jan 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Killer Joe

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A steep start traverses slightly leftward and up to a slab finish. There is a direct start TR that goes at 5.12.

Location 

The middle route on the wall.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains.


Photos of Killer Joe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the lower section of Killer Joe
Climber on the lower section of Killer Joe

Comments on Killer Joe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Flint Moon
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Apr 5, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
The side pull between the first and second bolt was pulled off. It is clearly missing and it seems like it was pretty recent. Not sure what it goes at now, but definitely much harder. 5.11b
By BoulderCharles
Jan 12, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun route and worth doing if you are at the wall. Tough first move but fun, dynamic moves afterwards to the slab.

Time lapse of a semi-rad ascent:
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Mar 18, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

10+ for sure. some good feet and balance movements will get you through the crux down low to 3rd bolt
By Keith Turkowski
Aug 18, 2014

Climbed this yesterday. I am not familiar with the route, but It seems like a hold broke off about 18" above and to the right of the second bolt. Progressing past this point seems very difficult now.

Update: just read a comment in the tick marks from April 2014 about a rail breaking off past the second bolt. 5.10 climbers might want to avoid this route for now.
By Eric72
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 6, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Climbed this about a year ago, just climbed it last weekend and it seems like it's lost a lot of holds and become even more of a sketch fest. No longer felt anything like 10-. There's a loose block near the first bolt, as well.
By Sergey Shelukhin
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route made my day after spending all day climbing at Panty Wall!
Great route. Still felt 10-, maybe it's height dependent though (I'm 6'3").

The side-flake below the first bolt feels like it's going to pull... the rest seemed pretty solid.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Dec 31, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great short climb for the end of the day. 5.10+ compared to other nearby routes.

If a hold broke off, I'm not aware, but it's so safely bolted that it's worth it to try it out. We were told there's an anchor above to rap into if you want to TR or clean a failed attempt. Give it a go!
By Benj84
Jan 11, 2017

Just commenting to address the bombs, I climbed this about 3 weeks ago and it is a bit balancy but it is gym bolted on what feels like solid rock, definitely didn't sketch me out.
Felt soft to be 10+, in the guidebook it was 10c and that seemed reasonable to me.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About