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40th Loss, The S 
Cool Your Jets S 
Kidsmoke S 

Kidsmoke 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Hammond 9/2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Todd H on Sep 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: 1. Kidsmoke 12c 2. Cool Your Jets 12a

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mantels lead to a tricky crux sequence culminating with a big jump move from a pair of slopers. Continue with more steep pulling, a short slab, then a final steep section with fun compression moves.

Location 

The farthest left route on the wall, immediately left of Cool Your Jets.

Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors. Optional #.75 Camalot between 4th and 5th bolts. The sloping ledge below the crux might appear hazardous for the falling leader, but it's actually a clean fall - the rock is steeper than it looks.


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By tenesmus
Aug 27, 2017

This route is definitely in line with bouldering in the canyon. The granite is similar to a mix of the Hidden Forest and the Far Side. If you like the body tension, slopers, pinches and dynos over there, this route is for you.

The wall is almost always shady so it might be better to work on a dry cool summer morning or anytime in the late spring through fall.

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