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A-Tree-Ehh S 
Calling Out  S 
Cookin the Captain AKA Divine Guidance  T 
Direct Genie S 
Kids in a Candy Store T 
Late Break-Up T 
Love Sickness T 
Resolution Crack T 
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Tweakin the Genie S 

Kids in a Candy Store 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Williams, Alicia Driscoll, Kelsey Gray, Kyle Arzt
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: C. Williams on Jan 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Kids in a Candy Store

Description 

Climb Resoultion Crack but skip the first anchor and continue direct. Pull through two steep bulges on good holds and continue direct to the top. Still a few loose chips but good rock overall.

  • A variation of this upper face was climbed by Kelsey Gray and Kyle Arzt on runout and marginal gear. A number of those gear placements were likely pulled off during cleaning.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5in, 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Kids in a Candy Store Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Karina moves above Resolution Crack onto Kids
Karina moves above Resolution Crack onto Kids

Comments on Kids in a Candy Store Add Comment
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By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun route! crux is the crack at the bottom! Willy P. added a new bolt today that helps avoid a potentially gnarly whip into a big ol' tree. Still nice and heady with some well spaced bolts. An area classic!
By Mat Brunton
Jun 3, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Getting up Resolution Crack is beast. A blue BD X4 (.3) protected the lower crack nicely and kept me from decking. The guidebook gear description seemed too small. I only had purple BD X4s (.5) and made them work, placing two in the crack before reaching the first bolt, but a green X4 (.75) seems like it would have been better. Make two or three placements in the crack (starting with the first from the ground) and then move to bolts up Kids in a Candy Store. Res Crack is definitely the crux, but the climbing is sustained and thoughtful to the upper anchors for Kids. Res Crack seems harder than 5.10d's that I've lead. Kids seems true to its 5.10a rating.

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