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Kidnapper Van 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 770', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jason Seaver and Justin DuBois
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: justin dubois on Aug 4, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Cleaned up version of the topo for printing.

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Description 

This route follows a line up the very distinct righthand gendarme on the Arrowhead/McHenry's ridge "the Shameless Tower". It connects crack systems along the right side of this pronounced pillar in four full pitches.

To start look for a large, worm-shaped pillar at the start of pitch two, about 250 feet above the grassy ledges/slabs. Start down and right of this pillar on a ledge 20' below a right facing corner with a left-angling splitter on it's right wall. A spot of fifth class gets you to this ledge, coming in from the right.

Another landmark is the beautiful handcrack at the end of the second pitch that splits an obvious red wall.

To descend, walk right (east) a few hundred feet to the lowest point of the ridge, and do three rappels on fixed anchors with two ropes.

1. Climb the angling splitter to a pair of short handcracks, that lead to a detached spike. Angle left, then right on moderate terrain to a belay below a tight, left-facing corner (the left side of the worm shaped pillar). 180'.

2. Climb up this corner (10-), to some wedged blocks. Undercling [left] (10-). Head up to a right arching flake. Climb the flake (thin 10-) to another left-facing dihedral. Up this corner with brilliant exit moves out onto the face below the splitter handcrack. Climb the handcrack and belay just as your partner is about to start climbing. 190'.

3. Go up a ramp on the left, up into a corner system (5.8) and follow this for thirty feet. Step right at an obvious, thin, right-arching flake. Layback the flake (pumpy 10+) to a sloping, awkward ledge. Balance right and belay. 170'.

4. Climb a short corner and do a weird mantle onto a grassy ledge. The crux corner starts off this ledge. Climb the corner and obvious, crack system above with very sustained stemming and jamming (11+) 190'. Belay at a small ledge, and do a short easy pitch to the abrupt summit.

Protection 

Rack to 4 inches. Long pitches may require a double set of cams, RPs. 60 meter rope (two for the rappels).


Photos of Kidnapper Van Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kidnapper Van topo.
BETA PHOTO: Kidnapper Van topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mchenry's and the Kidnapper Van.
BETA PHOTO: Mchenry's and the Kidnapper Van.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Kidnapper Van as seen from Arrowhead's ridge.
BETA PHOTO: The Kidnapper Van as seen from Arrowhead's ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 imperial walker crack above.
Pitch 2 imperial walker crack above.

Comments on Kidnapper Van Add Comment
Show which comments
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Apr 4, 2003

The undercling on pitch 2 goes left.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jul 16, 2010

Wow, it's been 8 years, and as far as I know, this route's only had 1 repeat.
Where are all the Glacier Gorge faithful?
By Brady Robinson
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Good route, worth the hike! We did the first 2 1/2 pitches as a long single pitch of simul-climbing, making our first belay at a ledge with a large, obvious pointy flake about 20 feet below the 10+ corner. Then we did the 10+ corner plus the initial 5.11 corner as our second pitch, ending at a nice ledge. Our third pitch finished off the final 5.11 sections. Splitting the last two pitches up this way made good sense to us, even if you don't simul-climb the bottom.

The belays are really nice on this route, with stunning views as you look across at the main Arrowhead wall, Spearhead, Long's, etc. The bottom wanders a bit. The cruxes protect well and are interesting. Nothing ever felt harder than 5.11. With so little traffic, lichens are covering many of the holds and cracks -- it's not dirty exactly, but it feels a little like you're on a new route.

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