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Bail Safe T 
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Kiddy Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Anderson, October 27, 1972
Page Views: 4,582
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Jan 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (156)
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BETA PHOTO: A fun moderate climb with a hard start....


Lieback the polished crack to a ledge halfway up. The crux comes early. Follow the upper crack to the tree that is the rap anchor.


The route starts in a small right-facing corner. This is the right most route at the North End (or Practice Slab). Park near the gate for the road to the top and follow the trail uphill.


Gear to 1 inch.

Photos of Kiddy Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the fun lieback
the fun lieback
Rock Climbing Photo: Courtney begining the route
Courtney begining the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Kiddy Crack (5.7)  Photo: Debra Hasse
Kiddy Crack (5.7) Photo: Debra Hasse

Comments on Kiddy Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009

i liked this route but the beginning finger locks were a little tricky
By Tim Wolsonovich
From: Boston
Sep 19, 2010

Low crux was real tough for me. Took me 3 tries to get started, then some easy climbing after that. Learned the OK finger jam that day.
By Evan1984
Jun 4, 2011

This is a good, fun route to warm up or wind down on. The lieback start is a somewhat thuggish crux, but good technique makes it over quickly. After the little ledge, thoughtful climbing takes you to the top.

PLEASE- protect the start before you set off. A slip on the start will have you falling either ankle or tailbone first into a nice pointed rock at the base. A .75 BD Camalot can very easily be placed high in the lieback crack from a stance before you set off. Keep a tight belay and you're good to go.
By Franz N
From: Mass.
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Small finger jam fun. Lead this only using nuts and tricams for fun.
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Jun 25, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

that runout start is safe climbing for the experienced leader. Only protect if you are learning how to lead on crack climbs - this will feel much harder than what you think is 5.7
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lieback if you dare. My partner, an experienced crack climber and trad leader, popped out of the crux due to the super-polished nature of the left side of the crack. Lots of feet on both faces.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 18, 2015

The opening moves are as slick as greased owl snot. Lots or people pop off. After ten feet things ease to reasonable. Watch your ankles---yes even on a toprope!
By David
Aug 24, 2017

The beginning is super polished and a potential ankle-breaker. As soon as you pull the move (I laybacked it), the difficult climbing is over. I would much rather do Child's Play to the left, and the only reason to lead either of these IMHO is to set a toprope on Bird's Nest or They Died Laughing.

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