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82 Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Reduction T 
Block Party T 
Crimp Chimp T 
Crème de la Choss S 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Quills  S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

Kid Charlemagne 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Derrek Anderson Fall 2010
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011

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On the far right end of the big wall section resides "Kid Charlemagne". The route starts with a difficult boulder problem past the first two bolts, then continues past another 6 bolts, several more technical sections, and a fantastic finish through somewhat hollow, but fun flakes/pinches and quartz knobs. A hefty two-bolt rap station awaits you at the top of this pitch.

This technical pitch also gives the climber a more aesthetic option (rather than the scrappy 5.6 to the right) to access one of the best pitches on the big wall section, "War on Drugs".


far right end of the big wall section where the narrow climbers' trail begins to ascend steeply uphill.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2017
By Matt Salter
Jun 18, 2011

Chris, I am hoping you meant 10a....
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jun 18, 2011

Really? 10a? Either I've become extreme weak, or you're climbing the wrong route. This thing definitely felt WAY harder than any 10a on the cliff. Am I missing something here, guys, or did I just not drink the Kool-Aid like the rest of you?
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think you must have missed something, Chris! There's a low .10a crux just off the ground, then it's pretty cruiser 5.9ish climbing for a few bolts before another brief crux bulge, then a bit more moderate ground to the anchor. Are you sure you're not referring to the direct start to Arms Reduction? If you do that straight up to the first bolt rather than traversing in, I could believe 5.11.
By Matt Salter
Jun 18, 2011

Sorry Chris, I am with Derek on this one. There is no way that thing is even approaching 11a. I even hesitated to go 10a on it as I feel that it is easier than the other 10a's on the cliff.
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yeah, get back on it, Chris. I bet you just missed a hold somewhere. It's still pretty dirty after all. I actually had to argue DA up to .10a when I climbed the route this spring. He was vacillating between .8+ and .9 right after he put it up! Now THAT seemed a bit over the top...
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 28, 2011

Isn't Kid Charlemagne a Steely Dan song?
By Derek Doucet
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Indeed. It's the lead track on the mega classic The Royal Scam.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 25, 2011

really, Derek (Anderson)? I know you're drinking the Kool-Aid, as well!
By Derrek Anderson
From: Albany, NY
Jul 26, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Doucet has the right idea... its all a Royal Scam... 5.7 just to even things out;)
By burlap submariner
Sep 27, 2011

Kid charlemange is a steely dan tune. Its about Owlsley Stanley, one of the first US born major LSD manufacturers. He also Built most of the sound equiptment for the Grateful Dead and designed the iconic "steal your face" logo.
By Bennett Lafond
Sep 12, 2017

I think this route deserves at least another half star. One of the better 10s in the Bolton area, with a fun flowy sequence with nice exposure before the last bolt.

Also, 10b seems fair. Might be 10a if not for tricky moves off the ground and a difficult second clip. Book doesn't specify, but the 'optional cam placement' at the top would be a finger sized piece.

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