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Khayyam Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bourbon and Butterflies T 
Champagne and Cocaine  T 
Conn Route T,S 
God's Own Drunk T 
Meltdown T,TR 
Option C T 
Power of Sole T,TR 
Rubiat Spire T,S 
Silk and Sangria T 
Tequila Sunrise T 
Yellow Wall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Khayyam Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.8481, -103.5344 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,223
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Mar 9, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Alcohol Wall- Left to Right White - Gods Own Drun...

Description 

Khayyam spire is the prominent Spire with the bright yellow face. It stands out in front of the Spire 2/3 gully. The awsome South Yellow Face has a long bolted route (The Yellow Face), the rest of the spire has some great long crack routes including God's own Drunk, The Wildman Traverse and others.

Getting There 

The spire is the first major spire reached on the Cathedral Spires Trail. Follow the trail until you can move right and up to the base of the spire.

Climbing Season

For the Cathedral Spires area.

Weather station 5.1 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Khayyam Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Khayyam Spire:
God's Own Drunk   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 320'   
Yellow Wall   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Bourbon and Butterflies   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Silk and Sangria   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   
Champagne and Cocaine    5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R     Trad, 150'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Khayyam Spire

Featured Route For Khayyam Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: 3 hours after I took this photo, Hirsch clipped th...

Bourbon and Butterflies 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b South Dakota : Custer State Park : ... : Khayyam Spire
You'll need some bourbon to ease your butterflies on this full 40m of intensity! Ranks high as one of the boldest and best routes in the Park. Start up the right leaning trough/ramp and head straight up at the first probable looking seam. This is the 'R' rated section since the first placement is at about 20'. After that, the rest is consistent PG13. Surprisingly, there is a lot of gear. But don't pass up a placement, be ready to sniff them out and get creative. Merge into the very end of Silk ...[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Photos of Khayyam Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A better overview of the wall. 1) G.O.D. 2) Meltdo...
BETA PHOTO: A better overview of the wall. 1) G.O.D. 2) Meltdo...
Rock Climbing Photo: a
a
Rock Climbing Photo: Khayyam in the center
Khayyam in the center
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of Khayyam looking east.
From the top of Khayyam looking east.
Rock Climbing Photo: from spire three
from spire three
Rock Climbing Photo: The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...
BETA PHOTO: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...

Comments on Khayyam Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Mar 12, 2003
Nate Renner and I did the Yellow Wall about five years ago and to this day it remains one of my most memorable ascents. The second pitch (12a) is amazing! Some of the sketchy bolts I have been replaced. Definately, definately worth doing.

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