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Keystone T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: April 2012 Tom Lane, Ben Brooke, Jay Harrison
New Route: Yes
Season: April - November
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Apr 10, 2012

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Tom Lane on the FA of Keystone.


Start at a left-facing flake 10' from the left edge of the boulder. Climb this to its end, bump to a good horizontal. Make a difficult mantle to stand on this (crux), then shift left to place gear under the flap above (green C3). Tenuous friction moves gradually ease as you pass a bolt and head for the anchor.
It isn't a long route, but it manages to pack a lot of variety anyway. The gear is good, but definitely requires an experienced hand at getting good placements - and a cool head, since the crux move is made with gear at your feet.


Although it is possible to scramble around to the bottom of this route, it is much easier to rappel off the fixed anchor, less harmful to the environs, and less likely to break your leg reaching the base.


Full set of C3s, a .5 C4 may come in handy, & some largish brass nuts; offsets work best.
There is 1 bolt enroute, and a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

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