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Keymaster
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British C2
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, 125 ft (38 m) |
FA: | 2015 |
Page Views: | 643 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2015 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Tricky initial aid practice. This route is an open invitation to free up, probably lodging in at 5.11.
Climb up the ramp-like corner (scary committing start, don't fall here!), snuggle in an excellent #1 C4, then move up and slightly left to reach a thin crack facing downward short of the lip of the ceiling. Follow this crack rightward, using opposed brass nuts (very important!) and C3s, to a step up, where the crack becomes wide. Reach above the overhang and hit a good 1" vertical crack to break through it, then continue up steep but bomber vertical crack to its end. Swing right to another vertical crack, which also peters out, but reemerges 7' higher. Make a couple free moves to cross the gap, then continue up easing angle rock to a tree on the left.
Originally done as a solo aid route, I took my first real leader-aid fall on this, when a brass nut I hadn't opposed pulled as I swung rightward. The traverse is never more than 12' off the block, so it was a good thing my remaining pieces held.
Climb up the ramp-like corner (scary committing start, don't fall here!), snuggle in an excellent #1 C4, then move up and slightly left to reach a thin crack facing downward short of the lip of the ceiling. Follow this crack rightward, using opposed brass nuts (very important!) and C3s, to a step up, where the crack becomes wide. Reach above the overhang and hit a good 1" vertical crack to break through it, then continue up steep but bomber vertical crack to its end. Swing right to another vertical crack, which also peters out, but reemerges 7' higher. Make a couple free moves to cross the gap, then continue up easing angle rock to a tree on the left.
Originally done as a solo aid route, I took my first real leader-aid fall on this, when a brass nut I hadn't opposed pulled as I swung rightward. The traverse is never more than 12' off the block, so it was a good thing my remaining pieces held.
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