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BETA PHOTO: 5 inch, 7 inch... it took me 30 years to lead this...
I have always been curious about this short climb - except for an occasional boulderer, I had never seen anyone even top-roping this climb. This past weekend, my partner and I found out why.
P1: Climb an obvious 4" left-leaning crack onto the ledge, follow the chimney/corner to the overhang and exit right. The crux is mid-crack at the chockstone. Grab the chockstone and chicken-wing your way up to good holds. Grey Dick rates it at 5.7 - it's probably a 5.7 for someone over 6', for they could grab the grimper on the right easily, for anyone shorter, the OW feels at least a 5.9. Hence there is the ambiguous 5.7+ grade. If anyone more experienced in OW, can enlighten me what grade this should go as an off-width, I'd be happy to change the grade. Wear old jeans/carhartts that you won't regret cutting off in case your knee gets stuck.
There are two hand and finger cracks to the left of the OW, they supposedly go at 5.9 and 5.9+. These two cracks are also very popular bouldering problems.
Walk off left to descend.
An obvious wide crack on the carriage-road facing side of the Keyhole wall.
You can leap-frog a #5 in the OW, it is also possible to sling the chockstone, but maybe more strenuous. The overhang at the top can be protected with a #4, but it is not necessary, there is some small gear on the face to the right.
BETA PHOTO: Alexis pondering the route. The OW is fun but the ...
By Steve Hazel
From: Philadelphia, PA
Nov 11, 2013
The OW is what is going to attract you to the climb but the roof up top is worth setting this up.
From: New York, NY
Jan 9, 2016
Climbed this today in the drizzle- it was completely dry. Did some flailing in the offwidth but thought it was slightly easier than Yellow Ridge's offwidth, and definitely shorter.
Definitely would recommend taping up for the variations as there are a couple jams.
Feb 22, 2016
First time I led this I couldn't even make it to the top of the off width.. Now with some practice climbing off widths I can say that It does in fact feel about 5.7 ish.. With good knee jams foot cams and arm bars it goes pretty easily. The top out is super cool as well.. I got my whole body in that squeeze chimney before exiting out right.. really fun