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Keyhole Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,328
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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me leading keyhole direct Photo:Taylor Krosbakken


A direct line of the keyhole route. Instead of heading right into the pod continue strait up to the top on small holds. A very fun route.
  • RCM&W #60, P.167.


Immediately to the left of the standard keyhole route.


The pro dissapears after deviating from the standard route so I would not recommend leading, unless you can find something I didn't see. Same top rope setup as keyhole. Nuts, and webbing for the large boulders.

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By Philip Carlton
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

This is actually a really fun and exciting lead -- in fact, you can protect it decently without using the crack in the keyhole at all (thus keeping to the direct route in the strictest sense).

The pro doesn't quite go away after moving left below the keyhole. Keep your eye out for the few horizontal pods that take TCUs (C3's).

Gear: Full set of TCU's, .4 Camalot. Small nuts for the bottom.
By Chuck Siebsen
From: Clemmons, NC
Jul 20, 2012

Climbed this route yesterday and totally loved it. From the same toprope setup you can climb the easier (5.6) route to the right or move left for a 5.9 or further over for 5.11. A great choice when you have climbers of differing ability climbing together. The weatherbeaten face has several well hidden holds, but follow the chalk. Try to avoid the frog hiding in a crack 10 feet from the top :)

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