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Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Future Shock T 
Kewa T 
King Thistle T 
Open Book, The T 
Triple Overhangs T 
Undone Book, The T 
Vertical Smile T 
Wonderette, The T 
Wonderwall T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Garon Coriz, Matt Evans, Duc Phuong
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Garon C on Jun 29, 2016

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50-60 feet to the right and below the start of Open Book (5.7). A series of cracks run up and right from the ledge system (5.7ish). This is the start for Future Shock (5.10). Climb the cracks for 40 feet that are nicely protected with nuts. About 20 feet below an old sling, a roof opens up on the left. A nice hand jam that is also big enough for protection allows for the transition left into wide flaring cracks via a small side-pull/crimp (5.10ish). Small cams are helpful but gear placements are still difficult. Pinches and awkward hand jams (5.10ish) give access to slopers and crimps to the ledge shared with the top of the first pitch of Open Book (5.7).


50 feet right of Open Book, look up and notice the roof-like structure 40-50 feet up in the middle of the wall.
You can use this as a variation to Open Book. The cracks directly above the belay have relatively no sites for protection so traversing left to the cracks of Open Book's second pitch is the best option to keep going up to the summit.


Standard rack. Nothing larger than a #2 cam though a #3 is helpful on Open Book.

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