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Kermits Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T,TR 
Cranial Prophylactic T 
Kermit's Direct Finish T 
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 
Kermit's Wad S,TR 
Lend Me a Dime S 
Lime Line Variation T 
Paranoia Streak T 
Punany S 
Revenge of the Nerds S 
Smitty's Wet Dream T 

Kermit's Wad 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: David Rubine, Ron Rubine, and Don Mealing 1982
Page Views: 4,908
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Sep 10, 2003

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Kermits wad lead climbing

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Starting (30 feet?) left of Smitty's Wet Dream, you will see an angling ledge system moving up and right then onto a blank face with four bolts. The blank face is the crux and was pretty slick in my memory. You are heading up and right to meet the top of Cranial Prophylactic.

Descent:75 foot rappel.


Basically quick draws will suffice (6 bolts + bolted anchors), however small nuts and cams could come in handy in a few places. Or... set up a top rope above Cranial Prophylactic.

Photos of Kermit's Wad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie sending the slab on Kermit's Wad
Charlie sending the slab on Kermit's Wad
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the hard sequence.
Starting the hard sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: Also, on the easy lower portion.
Also, on the easy lower portion.
Rock Climbing Photo: With the direct start.
With the direct start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Where to?
Where to?
Rock Climbing Photo: On the easy lower portion.
On the easy lower portion.

Comments on Kermit's Wad Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 22, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I believe there are 5 bolts on the route. Another fun friction route. The crux is definitely after the 3rd bolt, until you can get your hands onto the edges on the green face. After the 5th bolt, one has 2 choices. 1) Continue on the ledge to the vertical crack, then go up to the anchors. 2) Traverse right and up on the sloping ledge.
By Unassigned User
Oct 15, 2004

Just climbed this today. It is a fun route with some pretty healthy runouts (from the last bolt to the anchors is very "healthy").The main crux is from the fourth bolt to the green section of the wall. A cam would be helpful under the small roof beneath the fist bolt, as the bolt is about twenty feet up.

p.s. Two of the three anchor bolts are spinners, so be careful.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

favorite slab route in the area
By Shaun Greene
Sep 29, 2008

I am not "man" enough for this route...
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is not too runout any more (just a little between bolts 1 and 2 on the easiest slab section). It has, I believe, 7 bolts (not sure when they were added). A #2 cam is deemed prudent for the starting moves. excellent line, especially near the top from the crux to the last bolt! (last 4 bolts)
By Keith Forest
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Original FA Info:

I wanted to submit the missing 1st ascent information for this popular and fun route.

Kermit's Wad was originally put up in 1982 by David Rubine, Ron Rubine and Don Mealing. All bolts were put in stance on lead. They originally rated it 5.10b. The route was originally led by starting up the corner to the left and then stepping right on to the slab below the 1st bolt. Gear was placed in the corner.

The direct start was also climbed at that time on TR from the 1st bolt and then led through.

The Rubine's and Mealing did this route passing through on a brief climbing stint in the canyon on the way to CA. Upon hooking up in CA they told me about the route. Rubine gave me permission to report it now.

It always has seemed interesting to me that routes take on lives of their own, especially popular ones, and become part of an area as if it always belonged to it. Much of the time the 1st ascent party becomes secondary to the climb itself. I know these guys enjoyed putting up the route and were glad people have found it worth doing.
By ron rubine
From: Los Angeles
Jul 7, 2010

It seems like it was just yesterday when we were putting up Kermit's Wad back in the summer of whatever that was. My bro Dave and Don Mealing having just gotten jobs at a spot called Navajo Trails Rocky Mountain Ranch Camp outside of Bicknell, Utah, near Capitol Reef National Park. It's great to see those spontaneous efforts in Cottonwood Canyon that day afforded some folks the opportunity to do some quality slab climbing over the years. Whoever initiated the strand that ferried me back in time to a great summer in God's Country - thanks. I hope that Kermit's Wad spawned many an ascent on some of the greatest granite on the planet.
Ron Rubine
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 7, 2011

Such a great route. I did this as an onsite when Darren K asked me to set up a top rope for a club day a few years back. I had no idea what a wonderful experience it would be.
By Gordon E. Douglass
Sep 14, 2011

Hi - Just wondering something. I free soloed this route back in the late 80's. Anyone else?

Thanks - Gordon Douglass
By James Reynolds
Nov 8, 2013

I free soloed a lot of routes back in the day too, but would never have even considered trying this route. I have no doubt that Gordon is telling the truth, though. He was a fixture in the canyon back then, and one of the hardest of the local hardmen. This would have been well within his abilities.

The route is a great route, by the way. The moves on the green slab are unique.

I, for one, appreciate the history. Always wondered who snuck this route in without being noticed.

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