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Kermits Wall
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Centerfold T,TR 
Cranial Prophylactic T 
Kermit's Direct Finish T 
Kermit's Direct Start T,TR 
Kermit's Wad S,TR 
Lend Me a Dime S 
Lime Line Variation T 
Paranoia Streak T 
Punany S 
Revenge of the Nerds S 
Smitty's Wet Dream T 

Kermit's Direct Start 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: FA: David Rubine, 1982 FFA: S. Carson
Page Views: 1,318
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 13, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Matt brushin' up on Kermit's Direct

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Instead of climbing up the rightward trending ramp, climb directly up the face to the small roof band, place a cam with a runner, and make the crux move up onto the face. Relatively easy climbing joins in with Kermit's Wad.


A cam under the terrace, and 6 draws for the route (+2 for the chains).

Comments on Kermit's Direct Start Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2012
By tenesmus
Oct 29, 2006

This way is far more fun.
By zoso
Sep 11, 2008

This is unnecessarily run out. Why not put another bolt in rightbefore you make the tricky move? Groundfall if you blow it.
By tenesmus
Sep 12, 2008

I think you can reach around and place gear like you do for the original start and avoid the spookiness. But its pretty easy between the bolts.
By wren raming
From: s.l.c., ut
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

In my opinion its not to run out, nor to hard. A # 3 cam worked well for me on the little roof.
By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
May 13, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

WRT it being run out. I talked to Scott about this and he said that he didn't want to affect/change the original route.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

It's not run out if there's gear that will hold a fall and keep you off the deck if you blow it before the bolt. In this case a #3 and a couple micros in the dihedral. Also, there is no way this can rater any harder than 9+.
By Keith Forest
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

New FA info.
This direct start was was top roped in 1982 by David Rubine right after the 1st ascent of the original lead. (see Kermit's Wad for new 1st ascent info.) He originally rated it 5.10a to the 1st bolt of Kermit's Wad.
By Keith Forest
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

For accuracy purposes I believe the first ascent info should read FFA: David Rubine, 1982 FL: S. Carson (In a Snowstorm. First Free Ascent (FFA) First Lead (FL)
By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Aug 20, 2010

Just a heads up that the flake/block to the right of the initial cam placement is loose. I was going to yard it out but we had crap below.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

FFA (TR) Dave Rubine. FFA (lead) the Dean.
By Adam Johnson
From: Park City, UT
Aug 30, 2010

Agreed in the fact that there is pro! I got a few small nut placements a ways up from placing a bomb #3.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

#3 Camalot in the undercling slot is perfect. If you blow it pulling the bulge you probably won't deck, just really close to it. Definitely PG13 in that you have to run it out to the next bolt. But don't be scared! So much better than starting on the ramp. Makes Kermits Wad ****'s IMO.

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