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Kept to Memory 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: Courtney Curtner on Jun 23, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Scrub-a-Dub-Dub (Blue)- 5.9- Kept to Memory (Oran...

Description 

Nice pockets and features at the bottom lead to a blank middle section crux where tiny crimps and good balance are needed to get further up the wall.

Location 

Just left of 12 Pack (10c) on the Clearcreek Wall.

Protection 

Bolts to Anchors


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By JIm Wildenhaus
Jun 26, 2017

The middle slab has spit off just about everybody. No FA yet as far as I know.
By Corona
Jul 8, 2017

Crux doesn't feel easier than V5. The climb was damp and I'm weak as a kitten, but I could not do the crux moves. Scrubbed some intermediate slimpers, but I don't think I could do it without quite a bit of hang board training and a cold fall day. Cool climb, hard moves - still needs FA, I believe.
By Sandymalone88
Aug 9, 2017

Sent this today. Not sure if it has seen an FA yet. Better conditions than what my buddy who posted above experienced, but still not the best so it's hard to grade it. Definitely not 10+. Felt 12a? Great route and thanls for bolting it!
By JIm Wildenhaus
Aug 10, 2017

Nice to hear you got it. I believe it's FA. Feel free to name it. Thanks for the post and your welcome since I bolted it. Glad you enjoyed it. I figured the 3rd clip would be rough, not much feet there!
By Sandymalone88
Aug 10, 2017

Thanks Jim! Great line and perfect bolt placements. "Kept to Memory" 12a. You can change the name to whatever since you bolted it.
By Alex Fox
From: Oberlin, OH
Sep 17, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Gave this one a couple of tries today and yesterday, got pretty close! Getting to the third bolt is definitely a struggle; make sure you have enough gas not to blow the clip! Took quite a tumble on that. Being tall definitely helps with that. Highly recommended though.
By Sandymalone88
Sep 21, 2017

Delete the 10 c/d rating? Not sure why people would rate it that if they haven't climbed the route. Pretty sketchy lead for 5.10 climbers. Also, ignore the 1 star rating. Someone probably got spanked on this on TR. great route IMO.

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