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Kemosabe and Tonto 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ted Chapin & Jim Boone, 1979
Page Views: 1,391
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Dec 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: "Kemosabe and Tonto". Photo by Blitzo.


This route starts at the base of the large cleft and next to the yuccas. Climb the crack system directly to the top. The original party rated this route 5.9. I would rate it 10a/10b; it's strenuous with a tricky start.


Standard rack

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route- a little balancy to start and some 'bad' placements may confuse the protection issue with an inexperienced leader. Albeit that I think this route is only 5.9, I'd agree that it would be a poor route to try to push your limits on.The route was fun though, at ~35 meters length, it checks in longer than most real hidden valley routes. Fun overall with tight grain and good rock most of the way. Nice variety to the climbing movement- it deserves more traffic than it gets.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 23, 2007

Interesting route name.

Kemosabe is a 10a in Red Rocks to the left of The Ragged Edges Wall. To the right is the 5.5 Tonto.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice route up the center of an obvious wall! I also consider this route to be 5.10-. The crux roof at about 2/3rds the way up is tricky and committing but protects very well. The start is tricky and unprotected for the first 10 feet but has a decent landing if you blow it. You can setup a super TR with a 70m (bolted rap anchor is just left of the top of the route). Otherwise take two ropes to rap.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This route deserves 3 stars and a 5.10 rating. A bouldery start followed by engaging, technical climbing with a couple of no-hands rest stops. Bomber pro except for a couple of 5.easy sections. The crux roof protects well but felt really awkward and burly -- definitely harder than other solid 5.10's at JTree. Maybe I missed something. There's a 5.8 variation a few feet to the left if you don't like what you see.

You can rap the route with one 60m rope - it barely reaches but knot the ends anyway!
By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I really liked this route. Three stars and a 5.9+ rating. At the roof, throw a nut in (or two, like I did), and trust that jam!
By Russ Walling
Jan 19, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route... bouldery start with walk-out not carry -out finality. Upper roof seemed burly and well protected with pro in your face. Bolts on top sorta good, but one was finger tight and they have no lower offs, just hangers. Downclimb to climbers left and see you in 20 minutes or to climbers right and see you after a rigorous and sketchy down climb 7 minutes and 40 seconds later. Pick one... they both kinda suck.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Bouldery start isn't that bouldery with flat landing. Unless you leaned way back, I guess that could be bad. This is a good route with a few roof moves of varying grades. The final roof seems to be the crux in public opinion and has a crack to fit everyone from fists for the men to hands (deep) for the ladies. Protects well and probably about as difficult as Desperado so I'm rating the grade as 5.10 . Good and probably worth a trip to the Great Burrito if you're looking for long routes, in the sun, that you likely will never see anyone at even though it's 2 minutes scramble from the loop trail.
By Jeff Botimer
Apr 7, 2014

Fantastic route. One of the better climbs I've done at JTree.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Dec 28, 2016

anchor bolts left of topout now has slings with rap rings. rap with one 70m rope leaves about 5 ft to spare on each strand

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