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Main Alcove Wall
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Breakfast of Champions T,TR 
Hammond Eggs 
High Traverse 
Kellogg's T,TR 
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) 
On the Box 
Over Easy 
Slippery Crimps 
Thank God Traverse 
Warm Up Traverse 


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V1 Font: 5

Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: a lesser kudu
Page Views: 2,109
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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This is the easier version of the overhang in the Alcove. It involves going up and trusting that ball-like hold. At least the landing isn't as bad as Breakfast of Champions. Fun!

Addendum: Some may prefer a V grade, but Sherman's V system didn't exist when I climbed it first. Also, I'm not sure I've ever climbed a V3, yet I climbed this one. I added a V1 grade.


This goes up the right side of the overhang. It is left of the moon scoop. Aim for the ball hold.


A pad, a spotter, or decent technique.

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By T Seas
Mar 9, 2010

Haha, I think there might be a typo. Otherwise those are the shortest pitches I have ever seen! Do one move, build an anchor, bring up the second, repeat 12 times.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a


I think that giving YDS grades in the style of Boston Rocks for routes at Hammond Pond that are (to my knowledge) exclusively bouldered on by a climbing community that expects Hueco grades for their problems is a bit... I dunno... archaic?

In any case, this feels solid V3, which is the grade it receives in the Kemple Guide. By modern comparisons that puts it in the 5.11+ range even if we are using YDS. That might be a better representation here.
By S. Neoh
Nov 15, 2013

V3-/V3 I think. Easier than Breakfast. Old school grading of .10+ might not be all that unreasonable, when one is mindful of Cathedral and Gunks .10+ routes.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

True... but seeing as MP is primarily a platform for the most up-to-date route beta and not necessarily as a repository for historical information on these climbs (though I love that element of climbing in New England), I think that as a boulder problem, giving this a V-grade would be warranted.

Caveat: I'm also an upstart young climber, don't know shit when it comes to the scene in New England, and am in no way trying to step on toes of any of the history here. I'm just trying to put in my two cents for what seems like a incongruity on this specific page.
By S. Neoh
Nov 16, 2013

I too agree V grade for this and Breakfast is more appropriate.
Sorry if I sounded harsh, I did not mean to.

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