可可托海, KK, Kokotay, KKTH... "Yosemite of China". Call it what you will, this place has the potential to be a major destination for climbers in China. Granite of all types, from rough sandstone-like rounded heaps of rock, to glassy-smooth slabs, and of course plenty of cracks.
An evolving guidebook by Ola Przybysz, with unreal photos by Garrett Bradley, provides excellent detail on the history of climbing here, travel logistics, and route topos; check out the 2015 version of the guidebook
See the AAC report
for an early view on things.
Short trip report video from 2014: Keketuohai: Big Trad in Xinjiang, China
The Patagonia trip
in 2010 shows a few glimpses of the climbing potential.
If you are seriously considering heading up to KK, please feel free to post questions here and I'll answer as best I can.
From Urumuqi, take the bus from Nianzigou long-distance bus station directly to Keketuohai if possible, or to Fuyun and then change.
Climbing is allowed, but access has only been granted after lots of discussion with park officials. They welcome any additional tourism to the area, but could decide at any time that they don't want the risk of climbers injuring themselves or others, or damaging their rock. So please treat climbing here as a privilege and be respectful of the rules! Below are edited from Ola's book.
1￼. Before entering the park every tourist, including climbers must register with the Public Security Bureau (PSB) in Keketuohai town. Climbers staying in the KKTH Park official hotel will be registered by hotel.
2. Rock Climbers need to have a relevant professional climbing certification document (like AAC membership).
3. Climbers must sign a document with the park (waiver of accident liability), available at the ticket office.
4. Climbers must be 18 yrs of age.
5. There is a special ticket policy for climbers visiting the park. On the first day, climbers have to buy a 90-yuan park entrance ticket which will be valid during the whole stay in the park. Moreover, every time when entering the park, climbers will have to buy a special transportation ticket (50 yuan). Note that this policy may be different in the future.
6. After climbers have entered the park, they must report to respective management department the intended climbing routes, only after inspection and approval (by the park), the climbers can begin to climb.
7. While in the park climbing, each day a park worker will accompany each climbing party. This guard will accompany the climbers to the base of whatever feature is to be climbed that day.
8. Climbers who enter the park must have personal climbing and safety equipment. Climbers must wear a safety helmet.
9. According to Chinas border management laws and regulations, climbers are not permitted to use GPS devices, not permitted to transmit related data.
Currently it is not possible to stay in the tourist yurts inside the park. You need to stay in a hotel in town, and get a ride ~ 5 km in to the park every day.
Best option is the The Keketuohai Tourist Centre (Keketuohai jiedai zhongxin/可可托海接待中心), which belongs to the park and it is recommended to stay there. Also, the shuttle busses to the park leave from this hotel (every day at 8am), and return here around 6pm.
There are large, fancy hotels and many other accommodation options.
Keketuohai Tourist Centre
Phone: 0906-8782333, 15809064973 Price: 3-person room 200-300 RMB
Weather station 22.8 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Keketuohai
By TBrumme Brumme
From: denver, co
Jan 23, 2014
Does anyone know if climbing is openly allowed in Keketuohai?
By Dan Flynn
Jan 23, 2014
Yes. There are regulations; I've added more detail above.
By alix morris
From: Berkeley, CA
Sep 18, 2014
How are conditions in Getu during March and April?