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East Gate Buttress
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Arie on Jul 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Sean at the base of the skinny Keelhaul with the o...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


A good way to dispose of a trouble maker. In the middle of nowhere, but quality- considering this is on a common descent route and an obvious line, I wouldn’t doubt if this had been climbed before (see Glen’s Axis of Evil Comment, but it looked too good not to take a swing at. A little short, but quality thin fingers, thin liebacking, and a detaching flake make this a fun end to a Tingey’s Torture-ous day.

Start off a sandy ledge below (east) the Axis of Evil Arete and climb the obvious thin crack. The first 20 feet or so are positive, but the following section is slightly more insecure, gear less trustworthy, and there is plenty of exfoliating lichen and granite. A good steel brushing would be warranted if this were ever to get traffic. Finish off and belay off a pesky tree or manky gear up in the nook.

If you’ve got previous ascent info send me a PM and I’ll update it.


Climb to the top of Tingey’s Torture and scramble to the base of the Axis of Evil. From the base of the Axis drop over the ridge into the East Gate area to a fine mountain goat nook, scrambling down a hundred feet or-so until Stradler and Keelhaul are obvious on the right. Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west. The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.


Bring the small stuff

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