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The Crow's Nest
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Calypso S 
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Crow's Nest, The S 
Dingy, The S 
Ill Gotten Booty S 
J-boat T 
Keel Hauled S 
Keel-Ho S 
Land Ho! S 
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Mussels S 
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Keel Hauled 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Johnson 10/97
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 10, 2008

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Im rewriting this after finally figuring it out and sending.

The guidebook says hand jam. Even though im a decent crack climber i couldn't make that work. What worked for me was a series of brutal kneebars and laybacks for about 10 feet between the actual holds.

Climb the cracked corner until you can make moderate moves in to the groove. Decide if you are going to jam or kneebar then get to the business. This part is really strenuous and doesnt let up in difficulty till you are standing on top.

This route won't be for everyone but those who don't mind suffering will have a blast!


Start in the corner a bit right of Ill Gotten Booty (5.9+).


6 or 7 bolts to lower off.
watch you dont get your leg around the rope while you are working the groove.

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 11, 2008

I have heard of people laybacking it as an altenative.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 18, 2009

This thing is Soooo hard... i got SHUT DOWN again!
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
May 21, 2012

By Mike Robinson
From: Worcester, MA
May 21, 2012

The layback does not seem to be the way to get this route. It felt a bit greasy and not at the best angle to get any purchase. This is really a thrutchy climb streight up the corner. Maybee I missed something on the layback though?
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 22, 2012

Just jam it. The layback kneebar way is for big guys like Stevie J and Lee.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 28, 2012

yeah, i was wishing i could wedge in the corner when i did it... the kneebar option worked fine but was super strenuous...

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