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Routes in Kid Goat Buttress
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Drilling for Dollars S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grey Waves S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Hazy Days S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Shot Extension S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keelhaul Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keeper S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven's End S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sailaway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Say Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Twilight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Twilight Zone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Water World S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,990 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | ihategrigris on Mar 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Access Issue: Old access crosses private property
Details
The shortest access around the west side of the dump has heavy equipment operating during the week and should be avoided. Instead, use the access around the East side of the dump; it's longer but safer.
Description
This route is the perfect introduction to limestone trad. The rock quality is moderate to high, the protection is very good by Rockies standards. Commitment is low as any pitch can be rapped with two ropes. As with all Rockies trad route, the use of double rope techniques is highly encouraged.
Pitch 1 (5.5 - 20m): Trend up and right on the slab to a bolt, then straight up past 1 more bolt and a possible nut placement to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.6 - 30m): Traverse left, up and back right around an overhang. Follow the left facing corner protected by fixed pins (possible small nut backups are advisable). A few smearing moves lead to a large ledge with a bolt anchor.
Pitch 2a (4th - 5m): Move the belay to the fixed station left side of the ledge. Watch for loose rock. This station is shared by Grey Waves.
Pitch 3 (5.6 - 30m): The 'keel haul pitch'. Traverse left until it's possible to comfortably move up. Protection is a mix of fixed pins and bolts. Proceed up and left on the rough slab to a belay station. Rope drag is a serious problem on this pitch, bring plenty of long slings.
Pitch 4 (5.5 - 40m): Go straight up the slab with good but sparse protection. Come up between two large trees to a bolt belay.
Pitch 5 (5.5+ - 30m): Go straight up the slab crossing two vertical sections protected by fixed pins (very small cams as back up) to the top out. Bolts at the top out point.
Descent: Walk right along the top of the cliff and then east down to the river gully between kid and nanny goat buttress. Walk down the gully crossing to the north side of the creek (icy in early season). Scramble down 4th class slab to a trail acorss the creek and back to the base of the cliffs.
Pitch 1 (5.5 - 20m): Trend up and right on the slab to a bolt, then straight up past 1 more bolt and a possible nut placement to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.6 - 30m): Traverse left, up and back right around an overhang. Follow the left facing corner protected by fixed pins (possible small nut backups are advisable). A few smearing moves lead to a large ledge with a bolt anchor.
Pitch 2a (4th - 5m): Move the belay to the fixed station left side of the ledge. Watch for loose rock. This station is shared by Grey Waves.
Pitch 3 (5.6 - 30m): The 'keel haul pitch'. Traverse left until it's possible to comfortably move up. Protection is a mix of fixed pins and bolts. Proceed up and left on the rough slab to a belay station. Rope drag is a serious problem on this pitch, bring plenty of long slings.
Pitch 4 (5.5 - 40m): Go straight up the slab with good but sparse protection. Come up between two large trees to a bolt belay.
Pitch 5 (5.5+ - 30m): Go straight up the slab crossing two vertical sections protected by fixed pins (very small cams as back up) to the top out. Bolts at the top out point.
Descent: Walk right along the top of the cliff and then east down to the river gully between kid and nanny goat buttress. Walk down the gully crossing to the north side of the creek (icy in early season). Scramble down 4th class slab to a trail acorss the creek and back to the base of the cliffs.
Photos
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