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The Archway
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Kee Gai 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Wee Changrua and Elke Schmitz, 2/2003
Season: Gets Sun much of the day.
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Climbing on Kee Gai

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


An OK climb, but obviously bolted from the best stances, not to protect the hardest climbing the best. This is not a good warm-up or beginner climb and merits some caution. You will want to be sure to flash this one or a ledge fall may result.


This is the right most route of the South facing part of the Archway and is the furthest of the 4 adjacent routes from the rebar ladder. It can be started on the low angle section of Gruntfest past 3 threads on longer slings, or can start independently out to the right in its own corner.


Either 3 thread and 3 bolts or 4 threads and 3 bolts, both to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Gruntfest, all depending on how it is done. Take a few longer slings.
Also, beware that the name translates to 'Chicken Shit' probably due to the rather disconcerting fall potential despite being a sport climb. THis is perhaps the most poorly bolted climb on the wall, earning it the reputation in the local guidebook as being 'A 6a for the 6c leader.'

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