Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...
Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.
Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem. Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here
By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)
Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do
Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
83 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Kaymoor
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kaymoor
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kaymoor:
Featured Route For Kaymoor
Lost Souls 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a West Virginia
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Butcher's Branch
This is a great route! Begin by using a few smaller holds to gain a series of jugs that take you to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and get under the first roof, clip the bolt and find a rest out left. Once rested, traverse back right and make a big reach to a positive horizontal. Get setup and make another reach to another positive horizontal and traverse right a bit to clip the 5th bolt. From here, keep it together and head out right to gain a nice rest (crux). Rest up, and traverse b...[more] Browse More Classics in West Virginia
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.
I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:
Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)
When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.