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Kaymoor

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Kaymoor Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.046, -81.06841 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 89,654
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
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Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

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Description 

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at least a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here

Getting There 

The GPS coordinates above are accurate. Take Route 16 out of Fayetteville, taking a left on the Gatewood Rd., just as Rt. 16 veers right. Drive through some windy curves, eventually taking a left on the Kaymoor Rd (signs may point to Kaymoor or Arrowhead Trails).

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

86 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',44],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',5],['5.10',18],['5.11',22],['5.12',27],['5.13',11],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Kaymoor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kaymoor:
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Rico Suave Buttress
Flight of the Gumby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Butcher's Branch
Rico Suave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Rico Suave Buttress
Totally Tammy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
Springer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Butcher's Branch
Boing   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Butcher's Branch
Low Voltage   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Butcher's Branch
First Steps   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Seven Eleven Wall
Fairtracer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Seven Eleven Wall
Bimbo Shrine   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 75'   Seven Eleven Wall
Tony the Tiger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Butcher's Branch
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Seven Eleven Wall
Out of the Bag   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Rico Suave Buttress
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Rico Suave Buttress
Dining at the Altar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   White Wall
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Butcher's Branch
Thunderstruck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wall
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   The Glory Hole
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston Markham on the opening moves of Slash and B...

Slash and Burn 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Seven Eleven Wall
The lesser of the two showpiece harder rock climbs in Kaymoor...but nevertheless, quite classic!Crux comes early and hard climbing stays on you for the first 6 bolts, followed by a good stance and ending in a five-star coup-de-gras 5.10 slab takes you the the finish of entry level NRG 12d...unless you're a munchkin in which case you are going to earn your keep on this one. Good luck and get on it!...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Comments on Kaymoor Add Comment
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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)

When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.

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