REI Community
search
Kaymoor

Select Area...
Butcher's Branch 
Fire and Ice Buttress 
First Buttress 
Glory Hole, The 
Rico Suave Buttress 
Seven Eleven Wall 
Upper Kaymoor 
White Wall 

Kaymoor Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.046, -81.06841 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 80,140
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

57°
Wednesday

85° | 66°
Thursday

85° | 68°
Friday

78° | 61°
Saturday

75° | 59°
Sunday

81° | 59°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here

Getting There 

By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)

or:

Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do

Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

86 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',44],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',5],['5.10',18],['5.11',22],['5.12',27],['5.13',11],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Kaymoor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kaymoor:
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Rico Suave Buttress
Flight of the Gumby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Butcher's Branch
Rico Suave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Rico Suave Buttress
Totally Tammy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
Boing   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Butcher's Branch
Springer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Butcher's Branch
Low Voltage   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Butcher's Branch
First Steps   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Seven Eleven Wall
Fairtracer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Seven Eleven Wall
Grit and Bear It   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rico Suave Buttress
Tony the Tiger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Butcher's Branch
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Seven Eleven Wall
Out of the Bag   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Rico Suave Buttress
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Rico Suave Buttress
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Butcher's Branch
Dining at the Altar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   White Wall
Thunderstruck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wall
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   The Glory Hole
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Rock Climbing Photo: TtheT climbs the tiger-striped face immediately le...

Tony the Tiger 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Seven Eleven Wall
Start by scrambling up to a ledge and climb the crack system to reach the first overhang. Pull the overhang and work up a flake to reach the next overhang. Traverse left under the overhang to reach a flared flake, pull up and gain a stance (crux). From here, follow positive holds all the way to the top to reach the final overhang. At the final overhang, move a bit left and climb straight up to reach a large protruding block and make the final clip. Figure out a way to get in position to cl...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Comments on Kaymoor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)

When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About