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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thomas Michailides
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Sarah Meiser on Jul 10, 2014

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This climb is composed of a scrambly approach pitch followed by a fantastic, long, steep corner. You can't see the money pitch from the ground and for this reason I think the route is often overlooked despite the fact that the guidebook gives it the highest star rating.

The short approach pitch is little more than a scramble but its steep; probably wise to use a rope here. Begin climbing up the obvious weakness directly above the painted route name, following the path of least resistance through the occasional oregano bush. Keep an eye out for the two bolts that protect this 20 meter section. Although the approach pitch is sort of a pain in the butt, the climb itself is extremely unique for the area and worth the hassle.

Now for the business. Climb nearly 30 meters up a well protected dihedral with a crack. Liebacking is the name of the game, and though quite strenuous at times, there are good rests to milk when you get pumped. At one point the crack disappears for a short distance but don't despair; feel around for a hidden pocket to pull on.

Lower from top anchor and then rappel to the ground.


This route is on the far left side of Poets. You can't see the meat of the route from the ground. Look for the painted route name at the base.


Bolts. Rappel station at top of approach pitch (look to climbers left).

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