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North Peak - West Face
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L to R R to L Alpha
Bell , The T 
Bray No More T,S 
Bray To The Lord T 
Circumflex T 
Hooked on a Feeling T 
Inherent Contradictions T 
Kauffman's Rib T 
Madmen Only T 
Malevolence T 
Mistaken Identity T 
Negative Feedback T 
No Dally Alley T 
Northway T 
One Stop T 
Pine Tree Traverse T 
Princess Snowbird T 
Psycho Killer T 
Psycho Warfare T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Snickers T 
That's Reality T 
Thunderbolts T 
Up Front T 
West Face to Gunsight Notch T 
Unsorted Routes:

Kauffman's Rib 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Kauffman and party, 1955
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Mark Maier on Sep 8, 2013

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Kauffman's Rib on the left, the entrance to No Dal...

Description 

Kauffman's Rib climbs the south edge of the Euro Wall/No Dally Alley detached flake. It rises in two major steps with lower angle and traversing sections in-between. From the amount of lichen on the route it obviously sees very little traffic. There is considerable loose debris on the upper part as you traverse north along the narrow edge of the flake.

If you head up here you'll certainly leave the crowds behind, and you can get a unique perspective on the more popular areas and the No Dally Alley. You can also appreciate 1950's Seneca style "5.4," (overhanging steps along the rib, don't get on it if you think Conn's West is hard). It is possible, but inconvenient to return to the start once you are done. Take all your stuff and traverse the north peak to get down.

The climb can be done in one pitch, but rope drag and communication concerns may make you want to break it up. There are nice belay spots below each of the steps.

Location 

The easiest way to get to the route is to climb the first part of West Face to Gunsight and keep moving up the ramp to the north after the 5.0 step. If you keep going on the ramp you'll hit the south entrance to No Dally Alley and Kauffman's Rib will be obviously rising to your left.

Once you get to the top of the formation keep going north until you find the chockstone bridge or a spot you are willing to jump across to the main North Peak formation. Scramble up through lichen, dirt, and plants until you get to the North Peak ridge. Turn north to hit the tourist trail.

Protection 

Standard gear on the steep steps, not much gear on the traverses. A couple of very ancient pitons.


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